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We all surf for different reasons. This gentlemen surfs for the exact opposite reasons I surf.
I lived pretty insanely and came back in quite a state. Mostly ate rice and local stuff from local markets cooked on a camp stove. But also, it...
In 1998, I had $5,000 saved up, quit my job and took off for as long as it would last me. I did 7.5 months in Ecuador, Peru, Chile, Cuba. So...
If you go to Rutgers you can do study abroad programs. Also, don't feel like this is your last big chance to travel. I quit my job at 26 and did a...
Couple of years ago my buddy and I were surfing a late spring weekend in Avon-by-the-Sea when the lifeguards came on duty and whistled us out. It...
They made you get out to buy a badge? It's been my experience that I've never had to buy a badge so long as I had a board and was headed right to...
In sum: travel to a warm place with good consistent waves like a surf camp in Costa Rica: worth it going to some east coast surf camp and riding...
This is a pretty damn obscure song, but it's my all-time bar-none get psyched up for surfing song. And it plays in my head every time I'm trying...
I usually give folks a "whassup" if they're next to me, especially when I first paddle out. A lot of time people - especially those under 30 -...
Great move on switching out and getting the wavestorm. I learned to surf in the 80's when everybody was on thrusters and really, really regret not...
I am a registered organ donor. And for what's left of me after that, I have it it specifically written that my ashes be scattered in the ocean in...
A few posters have said this is an exaggeration. I don't think so. When they did Long Branch in the early 90's it was a solid 15 years before I...
Don't pack up the moving van just yet. North Jersey jetties definitely win this hands down. But once the Army Corp is done with the current round...
You don't think people care about replenishment? Go to any story ever done on the topic and read the comment from taxpayers irate over their money...
Me too. But not THIS winter.
Yes. I think my most serious surfing injuries have been sustained trying to get the damn winter rubber off. I have a torn labrum in my shoulder...
Here's a plan my best friend executed while he was in a similar situation (in med school, carless in Boston) He started a club with some other...
I had a dream of one day going out in the world and spreading the word about the importance of punctuation and the use of the return key and space...
[ATTACH] No quiver is complete without an old skool canvas mat. Hurricane Sandy forced a family reunion - a few of these live in crawl spaces of...
Best day of the fall for me (which ain't sayin' much this fall). I got out just as the tide started dropping, wind went west and I had it to...
