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I'm 46 and here is what surfing has given me in 30 years - Melanoma, a bad case of cervical spondylosis, a bad case of medial epicondylitis that...
petty thievery is endemic, whatever you leave unwatched on the beach they'll take. Everything. If you have a rental car, they'll open it with a...
also - the longer you delay surgery, the more the scar tissue around the tendons will build up and impinge your movement, weaken the muscle and...
I'll modify somewhat but I'll never not surf due to crowds. I've been in lineups with 30+ people on 1 peak and had a great session because...
6:30 am to 8 am - got 5 ok waves. Saw a bunch of Dolphins. Worth it
next time you see that, if you had any balls you would run them off the road like Bunker Weiss and Warchild don the drive back to Venice after...
I'm conflicted, because although I 100% loathe the type of insecure, petty, needle-****ed, undisciplined person that would attack another person...
"anything over 10 seconds gets redirected." - which happens about 10-15x a year, maybe
"The Best of Wilbur Kookmeyer" www.amazon.com/best-Wilbur-Kookmeyer-Bob-Penuelas/dp/B0006S0B0A/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1493933438&sr=1-1
I like the guys (always guys) who stand there all silent staring at the water with a half-sneer. I like when my 95 lb overly excited dog...
I'm old enough to remember the days when you didn't mess with someone if they had a lot of ink. Nowadays, the guy with the neck tattoo probably...
the same Peajay who relentlessly trolled the long-defunct Newyorksurf.com forums? The super-troll who (wisely) avoided divulging an off-screen...
thats great that you'll get some water time with him, he'll probably be very appreciative, Ranger school is some next-level suck
about 2 years while on active duty. I joined the Marines b/c all they're an amphibious force and all their bases are warm water coastal, but the...
try Diaphragmatic Breathing (stomach breathing)
wracked with pain from multiple chronic injuries, paddled out anyways this am. Surfed pretty badly but still had some solid rides
don't tell her, go surfing, then, at the end of the day, let her know and carefully note her reaction and let that inform subsequent decisions
$350 - its 12' custom shaped for me by Mike Becker @ Natures Shapes out on Long Island
i have one for sale, pm me
yesterday was fun, waist+ but good form. Today @ dawn smaller, now nothing.