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Damn, where else can I talk about my sessions if not on a surf forum? I don't really get into complaining about politics or whatever. It's going...
WH-CH+ today and clean. Still blowing sideshore and drifting, but not as bad as yesterday. My last wave was a solid left. Dropped in, beat a...
My biggest problem with airs is that I don't commit. I worry about not making the rotation and breaking my neck in the shallows when I project...
Solid, but too much drift/wind. CH-HH and clean with texture. Cold-azz water! Got a few fun ones. Constant paddling to stay in position. A pod of...
Passed on it today. There were some guys out, and it looked okay, but I'm spoiled. There's still too much short-period west windswell in the...
Chunky today. Started out with some very solid HH+ sets. Storm is coming in, so winds on the outer waters made it kind of funky. Got a few good...
Here's a pic. [ATTACH] You can see an oil platform 1/4 of the way over from the left side. They're more visible at night when they light up like...
Nice day today. Heavy HH slabs down at the point. Got shacked off my nut. Plenty of beat-downs going on too. Light texture from sideshores, sunny,...
Why are your panties all in a twist? I can see a string of offshore oil platforms from my back yard. Old timers talk about the big day when the...
News flash; surfing sold out a million years ago. Pro surfing is just a bunch of clowns entertaining the masses, just like all those other...
Not so great today. Caught a tiny window between the bizarre onshores we've been having. Unfortunately, a NW windswell was crossing up the SW...
Got skunked today. Buddy said it was blown, so I just ran down to the beach instead of surfing. When I got there it was OH+, heavy, semi-glass! Oh...
No, you cannot. You can only surf there if you have access. It's not worth it 99% of the time, anyway. Like Philos guessed, it's shoaly and...
I don't know what I did in a past life to luck into this situation, but I suspect I was Ghandi. :D
Solid today. CH-HH and super peaky. Lots of ramps. Glassy to light sideshores putting some texture on it. Too much tide and too little swell for...
In CA bruddah, and it's as long as I want it to be. Usually 60 minutes for a run, 90 minutes (20 of those being getting from the desk/clothes to...
I will say that I've seen a few times when a gaggle of boogers will show up and start dropping in on everyone and generally making a nusiance of...
It's ridiculous. I've been surfing/bodysurfing/bodyboarding for like a million years (15 actually). I've been to Indo, Japan, Africa, freaking...
Same deal everyday for me: Paddling my "private beach" awesome spot at nice warm, sunny lunch-o-clock if there's anything. Going for a run on the...
Oh hells yah! The Star Bar's coming back, baby! We gonna party like it's 2005! I caught it so good out there that year. Chocolate indo! Perfect...