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paddle battling and mugging peoples' spot is in many cases almost worse than dropping in on someone. People who do that crap - who aren't known to...
yeah you have to go there when its big like that = the majority of locals can't make it to the outside. If its under chest high then just skip it,...
Rockaway Bch has an elevated boardwalk and its pretty far from the beach, so the wave is going to look smaller than it really is. Generally...
dressed only in a loincloth and a Buffalo robe, I take a satchel with peyote mushrooms and I venture far into the woods, where for 4 days I sit...
sounds like you're just not ready for college. Work at a restaurant or something, save up about 10k, then go extended surf travel for 8 mos-year....
my local shop sells more bikinis and sunglasses then boards and gear - but hey man he'd be out of business in a heartbeat if he didn't have that...
I've been surfing basically the same 5-6 jetties since 1985 - age 14- didn't surf much from '91-96 (military & college) I fantasize about long...
I think what he meant was that unless you know where the channels are, have paddling strength, know how to duck dive, won't panic and let go of...
getting skunked or at least sucking it up and paddling out anyway even in sub-par conditions is just part of surfing - esp. on the east coast
beginners are cool - its the ones 1-2 years under their belt that are annoying - false confidence - inflated sense of ability i.e. KOOK!
murder by shark is pretty funny - why stop there? How about: Sharks are the Terrorists of the Ocean. You're either with us or against us.
well, I should clarify - I time it so all this happens pre-dawn. I am usually pulling up to the first spot I check at first light (I actually did...
wake up get dressed w/o waking up family feed cats, let dog out check cams, buoys, NWS Marine report online while waiting for gut to "wake up"...
yeah in general I am comparing Sandy Hook down to LA to Belmar down to IBSP, but specifically for the sandbars that was the comparison. Sand on...
also, it seems like the sandbars work better down there - I'm talking like Belmar/Spring Lake as compared to Long Branch/MB.
almost always bigger by at least a couple of feet (and better shaped waves) south of Monmouth Cty, always been like that as long as I can remember...
Its nothing that can do permanent damage. You get sick for a week once every couple of years or once a year and thats it. Price of doing business...
I owned a Fish and have ridden numerous friends' but just have never felt the love. Maybe b/c I'm goofy footed and mostly surf rights. Not to be a...
Oh, I have no illusions, I've been surfing in these **** waters for about 25 years, on Friday I looked at the incoming tide, the water color and...
Friday am was fun - real peak-y - but also some small mini-barrels - got covered up a few times, fun crouching head-dips. Something was in the...
