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I think the length has something to do with the differences we're feeling... mine was sub-six foot... 5'8 or 5'10 I think. At 6'4 I'm pretty sure...
Great viz.
I built a one-off of a Biscuit and felt like it wasn't really a small wave board. Worked better in medium to good waves, imo... then it really...
Depends on my mood... sometimes surfing all just stoke and fun and sunshine and smiles, sometimes it's contemplative therapy for the soul,...
Glassy little 2-footers yesterday... ho hum.
Spear Fishing trips to the Keys in April and Block Island in May.
Knee to thigh high dribblers over the weekend. Clean, but really small and weak. Would have gone if it was August, but decided to brew 10 gallons...
Either or... but in my experience I've really only traveled there in December or January, and January has been better with those big blasting cold...
Lately I'm seeing more stoke and less aggro... tbh. The dudes that have the biggest smiles seem to be the one on those foamies that are so popular...
Easier said than done.
Didn't have a chance to get out last night, but did see it. Hard offshores, lots of current, but just freight training down the line. Guys I saw...
Same up here in North... a spectacular day, with super fun waves that didn't let up all day.
Hoping for another shot of swell on Sunday. Will have to scope out a good spot away from the crowds again.
I'd say PR is probably the best in terms of size and quality... but not necessarily consistency. I guess it's a tradeoff... you can find a lot of...
Remember when CC Sabathia hurt his ankle on a trampoline playing with his kids? The media rushed to his defense because he was "being a good...
It kinda sucks, but you get used to it. But I will admit that surfing in a 5 mil in your 50s is a hell of a lot harder than surfing in a 5 mil in...
Beautiful shot, curl.
Oh... LOL. I thought you were serious. When I ran a surf camp I looked into it to avoid some hassles. I couldn't believe it wasn't on the official...
A contract is something that's agreed to by both parties. He chose to accept those terms. Good for him. BTW... last time I checked, surfing was...
Tide a little high early, but damn... it got super fun late morning. Just firing. Not big, but super fun.