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Just goes to show you how just about anything can be used to ride a wave. Tubercules actually make sense in terms of hydrodynamics... just doesn't...
I take a thruster/quad convertible hybrid shortboard... slightly more rocker than a small wave board, but less than a full on HPSB. Then I'd plan...
A first generation quad shortboard from the late '80s. It just would not turn. Went really fast...straight down the line.
I got absolutely drilled yesterday on a real dredger. Current pulled me around the tip of a jetty, and as soon as I cleared it a set came... I...
Wish I could take credit for it but not my idea. Actually, the original artist does it way better... https://www.instagram.com/sea_black_prints
Yea. Wind killed it quick. Just happy to rinse off.
Yup.... coulda done the 4/3... but didn't. Should have. Will next time. Some fun barrels this afternoon after a line of storms passed... finally...
That was post-cleanup after shaping... pre-glassing. Gotta flip the workspace when you only have a small nook to build a board.
Used to surf Belmar a lot back in the late 80s... there was literally no one out 95% of the time. Everybody went to the inlet. Imagine passing up...
uh... I ran out of paint.
Dims: 5'5(ish) x 15.75 x 19.75 x 15.5 x 2.5 Rocker 4"+ nose; 2" tail A touch of vee in the entry, to flat, to heavy vee with double concaves out...
And you don't need to be a pro to have fun building and experimenting with boards, either... [ATTACH]
I think you're right, B-Mon... and I'll add that there's a difference between a shaper and a designer. There's a lot of great shapers that are bad...
I haven't made the shift yet, but last time I was out I thought the water was approaching 45 or so. Next session... maybe.
Hahaha! Yea, brother... famous last words! Late one fall... as the holidays approached...I friend of mine who doesn't surf much anymore ran into...
I think of MR saying, about Bells "...oh, it's just a big mushburger..."
Yes you do...
What a great freakin' wave... Some solid surfing, too... from a cat that's a freak of a talent, yea?
Yea it does... one of the waves I'd have loved to have surfed in my lifetime. Probably not gonna happen at this point.
So YOU'RE that ripper!?!?! dude... you should go pro. Or at least have an insta or vlog or something...
