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you guys aren't getting it! despite his influence, negative image, etc., ....when he surfed point breaks, he had the "coolest of the cool" style...
...I read the book, too ("All for a few perfect waves", and it's a terrific read - there are few insiders left from the southern cal. surf scene...
I really have a bigger problem - I haven't gotten wet in......damn...I can't even remember when I've gotten surf on a weekend (all I can do right...
#19 darippah - you've got the right idea - I had a 2 dollar key made that will only unlock the door (won't run the car), and I keep it on a chain...
I love it when it's big, and cold, and you're alone - very sketchy feeling, creepy, but soooooo cool! You're not showing off for anybody, just...
Well, it's been decided - my wife and I are going to Panama in february. Anybody got any info that would be helpful - We'll be in Panama City,...
for some reason, I can still wear 5 ml booties, but my fingers get friggin cold in 38 degree water - I tried everything, claws, etc. but i finally...
There is no scientific evidence to support this claim - it's an "old wives' tale" (or wishful thinking!
honestly? this forum was never very good! (although the forecasts have been much better than some others) - that's mainly why I tune in!
you're gonna be disappointed - go back to san diego for real surf (and consistent surf) - but if you have no choice and gotta stay - keep your...
Back in the day (mid seventies) when I was guarding in the state park at Assateague, Mike Macaboy (R.I.P) and I did some crazy sh*t , and we used...
Yea - I saw them, too - he really was something else (a bit of a prick, too!) but check out the bio : "All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious...
Give \"gruvi\" a break, and let him learn how to handle himself (both in and out of the water) but if you want to give him good advice about...
what the hell is "pitted"? and the only way anyone would break a board with recent midatlantic waves lately would be a pearl on a very late takeoff!
sounds like "closed head trauma", technical term for a rotational injury, your brain can slam against the inside of your skull - DEF can be...
58 and counting, and still surfing - Like Clint Eastwood said in "Magnum Force", "a man's got to know his limits"...but I still work out, and can...
thank god i found a pretty good spot wiith a nice break this weekend - but i had to wait til the freakin guards went off duty, or go out before...
Check out Miki Dora on You Tube - he'd just come up beside someone and f*ckin push them off their boards, then take over.
..."saying it's your job don't make it right" (Cool Hand Luke)
I think that there are more surfing accidents (and even fatalities) in smaller surf than in big stuff - maybe newbies haven't learned how to...