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I was paddling for a wave a few weeks ago and something large hit my foot. I talked to anothre guy that was out there and we decided to "say it...
We got out before 8. The waves were maybe waist, but they were breaking weird. I got maybe 3 good ones before it got flat. Whoever said it was...
I understand the statistics behind all of this, but that doesn't mean that I worry about those more.
My board is still in the shop. I hope I don't have to ride my longboard in these.
I've got a few photos for the contest last weekend posted on my website. Go to the gallery page and you should see a link...
