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Drivers license, registration, and ashtray he demanded.
15 knots unless you have a cove or jetty as protection. Then still go out, just catch the inside reform instead of trying to make it to the...
All of a sudden, the Ghost of Andy Irons appeared. In a haze of ganja smoke and sea spray, Andy scolded Shred for being a pu$$y for pulling back...
There was lots of coke washing ashore back then. Probably just one gulp of saltwater and BOOM! goes the dynamite. Just a theory.
Awesome!
My youthful arrogance, in the face of a tight knit local crew on an epic day of days, was stupid and provoked this incident. Youth and ability...
The Lake Worth Pier is full of cholos with knives and guns. Been in a couple of beefs there over the years. Once it was huge (we just left Reef...
Sebastian Inlet, late 70s. I was on 2nd peak, and wasn't going to drop in, but the guy who took off on 1st peak (Jackie Grayson - he was the...
So 10 max? If so, more hindus will be required, so maybe 15 is abooot right.
In all seriousness, 15 is way too many to roll with. A water videographer, another photographer on the beach with a 4000m telephoto lens...
No offense bro, but that board would snap like a toothpick in the power barrells we get down here. Lips 3 foot thick, that will annihilate...
Where I'm from, October is when it gets good. Halloween Swell ring a bell? Any one have any good October stories?
Nice post bro. You had me in the barrell, looking for daylight.
Classic! I think I've seen that guy at the secret pier.
54 - "Too old to bother, too young to care" - Bouncing Souls "If you don't know how old you are, how old would you be?" Satchell Page I'd be...
The lack of people and the horizon less grey sky, coupled with a completely calm wind made it totally surreal. Only thing missing was a guy...
Probably since I had just met my now wife, so I was trying to impress her, and I knew Reef Road was macking. So instead of paddling across the...
Wayne's Apostles?
Last evening it was small and mushy but sometimes it's who you're surfing with that makes it fun. A couple of buddies and their grom kids were...
The first time I traveled to Costa Rica, each time we ordered Guaro the same thing would happen. One of us would say "Guaro por favor", and the...
