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It's nice to have sand back. This week has been kinda meh, but better than not surfing. Solo sessions. Waist-to-shoulder high. Textured but not...
Another sick session today. South swell holding, but some lump on it from outer water winds. Also, pretty inconsistent, but bomber sets....
First south swell of the summer is building in. My home break was firing today! Shoulder-to-head high with light winds and OH bomb sets. The...
Get a US-made wetsuite. I use Chinese (and now Vietnamese and Cambodian) factories for my business. It works with the type of goods I sell, but...
Go south. Don't come up here. Ventura is a long way to drive just to have your tires slashed and windows waxed. The rich f*ks in Malibu or south...
Venice is a fun place to visit, but the surf sucks. You can go literally any direction any distance on any swell and get better surf.
Last week sucked. Only got out twice and it was pretty sub-optimal. Made up for it today. Decided to get away from the town crowd and headed down...
Antonie, don't talk with yo mouth full. Am I the one complaining? It's fun jawin with you EC softtop riders. Sure, they can hang with real...
Yeah, I understand. Those of you with itty bitty d*cks best always stand up and not risk dragging them through the water. A minnow might nibble...
Anybody switch stance when dropknee? I'm goofy, but most of the good DK waves around are rights. I can rip the ***t out of a left, but I can...
Read my "Surfing Where there are No Surfers" tread and you'll see I don't give a fugg. Just let your spouse know where you're surfing so they can...
I have never left early/gone somewhere worse/not paddled out because of a friend. If I think of it, I'll text them before the sesh. Don't really...
Sheesh, I've only surfed like maybe once a week for the last month! Might try to DP *t*an* or Cstreet tomorrow AM, but south winds might wreck it....
Orange striped 6'-ish pintail singlefin custom shaped by Zuma lifeguard TR. Thick, bouyant, and squirrly as a m-f'er with that massive single...
It's all in your head, but you gotta settle your affairs before you're gonna get right in your head. If you're out there wondering what your kids...
XL and F-ed up. Too much tide, too much drift. Brown silt reminder that there's some poop in the soup from Wednesday night's rain. I still...
Zika, that's what could be worse.
I'm down with drones. They can't fly over my home break anyway. When I'm surfing somewhere popular, drones bug me as much as photogs on the beach;...
**r**d dawnie on Friday. Should be XL. Hopefully not f-ed up like two weeks ago.
**r*n* was firing on Friday and probably all weekend. Those Malibu breaks are good for cutting down on the size of these XL swells. When you say...
