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I was like this when I lived in the valley and had to get up at 4AM, then drive 30 mins just to get f-ing skunked and then go to work all tired...
All surfers have a problem. We'd be much better people if we didn't surf. To avoid neurosis: An hour-ish session, 3 days a week. To be...
Yeah, it's cool now. I just head down to the "gym", strip down and paddle out for an hour, prentending I'm in Hawaii. But in a month it'll be...
Smaller, more inconsistent, but cleaner today. Got a sick in-and-out on the refraction. Just hung there in the barrel right where it jacks from WH...
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Ok, here are the actual pictures of Speedbumps and some more from my secret island. [ATTACH] [ATTACH] [ATTACH] [ATTACH] [ATTACH]
Wholey crap it was fun today! A nice combo swell was pushing into my little offshore corner. The tide was high and it was super-rampy on the sets....
For a surf trip? No no no. For a trip with surfing, sure.
That's supposed to be an animated gif because the wave barrels further down the line. Anybody know how to directly upload a gif? I can only use...
Hey, I found pics of Speedbumps. [ATTACH]
Still some action yesterday. It was tough to read and pretty closed-out, so I only got a few good ones. Still, can't argue with CH+ warm water...
Wind was on it at the nearby beach, so I pilgrimaged to a nice left-handed point for some more warm water long-period south swell. The crowd was...
FOAD, kook! You're welcome.
All this and more. Then I sued the pants off the idiot who put together the website.
Quit surfing. Sharks like the taste of liars.
Another warm water session today. Sooo nice. Nobody on the beach when I walked down from the car. Light cool offshores were blowing, and a tiny...
I wish I could've seen that! A front flip takeoff. Next time it gets big and closed out at my lunch spot, I'm gonna try it!
This. No snake if the kook can't make. But I've seen dudes make sections that I thought were impossible. Also I've pulled back when I though...
Nice way to start the week. Paddled out for a late lunch session. Wind was light offshore, waves were really really small, but there. Nothing but...
Was angry about not surfing since Friday. Now I'm mellow. Fun today, same crappy beach, but the same good wind, same warm water. Nothing special,...
