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I know of such a place where the surf pumps year-round and nobody bats an eyelash if you say you need a vegetarian only meal. Warm water too.
I cramp after an hour when I pull a BS 360, or after a few hours during any maneuver or sprint. It's a fact of life. Nothing you do will help....
#1 tip: Do not take your woman to Indo.
This is the summer of eternal swell. Many spots glassy and going off this AM, but I didn't paddle until the wind got on it in the afternoon. Went...
Pah! You Europeans always cut and run when things get dicey! Did I bail from *a**a* when SARS hit? No! I ate street food, surfed epic typhoon...
Your site is a fail. My tribe are my neighbors and friends who I surf with every day, not some bunch of internet hodads. Keep your herd south of...
Dammit! Marie wiped out my home break! There's no sand left, and it was breaking just a few yards out from the seawall today. It should have been...
Lol, I've only ever shot the OB pier, and it was on a pretty small day. Never climbed out on a jetty or jumped off a pier in order to paddle out....
I'm surprised Laird was at Malizoo and not **tt** **m*. I used to see him SUP'ing his LB in the early aughts back before SUP was a thing. I guess...
We've been surfing every day. I'm on the WC pretty often. Here now, actually. Do you really wanna hear about how good it's been? Last week was...
Pfft. Since when did boogers and standups give a good gawddam about Johnny Law? I've been dodging police, lifeguards, private security, angry...
4/3 with booties and a hood is good for all of CA north of SD. It doesn't really get that cold, even on "cold" days. The water regulates the temp...
Lol, I'm back stateside, and there are PLENTY of surfers here. Paddled out at *e yesterday, and I was the second guy out by virtue of...
I've seen drones over the popular break near my place. Drones are good in every way. If I get to see some footage of myself: Good. If I get to...
Ouch! That smarts!
Got in one last day in **n**n* before shipping back to the 'states. 2.4 meters hot, sunny, and glassy. Beautiful. Gonna miss some epic typhoon...
Wrote this a few days ago, but internet was down then due to the typhoon, and I forgot I had saved it: >>> I'm writing this as torrential...
A'ight, Zombie, you can flip those oil rigs the bird. If we were all living like you, BP wouldn't have the fiscal motivation to drill out there....
What a cop-out! You're too poor to be environmentally friendly? Being truly poor IS environmentally friendly. If you couldn't afford your car,...
Do you never drive a automobile or motorcycle that runs on gasoline or diesel? Do you not have a plug-in hybrid or electric car that runs on, or...