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what he said. about 49degf so jersey. 3/2 w/no boots NOT ENOUGH. had to get out. now need to de-compress from hypothermic condition. cue injured...
escondido beckons the experienced and committed. those that want to surf and have fun less so. if i was going to mexico i wouldn't leave beach...
of which is ground zero ocnj…..surfing today? its down further….
sometimes street people 'disguise' themselves as fishermen….
also during that decade the longboard was dead, buried, and everybody had gone home from the funeral.
thanks for the advice paulie. i will say it was one of my odder sessions. hope the next storm makes up for it.
also that week/swell makua won big in peru with a #$$%@#$%?!!! drop at pico alto…made these guys look a little second rate...
fyi the reason i am so excited is that i own 12.5pct of 68 acres on the hill overlooking gigante. i imagine you'd be excited too.
yes. that poem is for sale. pm me.
yo - you there? what does the front page say about the canal? through jj's bathroom? will gigante be removed from the map? is colorados destiny to...
could be some extra-surf drama today from the pols that run nic. today we find out (supposedly) where the new CANAL is going to be placed. hoo-ahh...
paddled out; no one around. VERY LARGE SETS. waiting for one i glance at the shore… theres forty people standing watching me…(??) then i...
yes. that. cause grass seed DOES NOT work.
beware of old 'replicas' of old long boards; you know, a new board that just got old as opposed to an antique.
that is SO floridian.
taking off on it is easy. surviving it less so. also somebody/ anybody should be asking why they are wearing helmets.
how bout putting him on roys' board?
ok zippy thanks for that i get it…though haven't tried them yet...
as far as this goes i was in somoco and at about 5:00 pm 7/4/14 there were nine foot sets.
too serious for me. takes a nice photo though.. that wave might be more at home on north shore (brah)...
