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my issue has pretty much NOTHING to do w/ what he said or how he said it. could it have been phrased better? absolutely. but i honestly care not...
talk about biting the hand that feeds you...jeeze! i agree w/ mOtion732...the guy's an idiot, regardless of his surfing ability. does he have a...
well aware of that. i just think it's bizarre.
ok, i guess i'm gonna be the guy to ask...what's w/ the swell drop-off on friday/saturday? unless i'm reading things completely wrong, there's a...
exactly. if they weren't trying to dig themselves out from under a pile of debris & get their lives back in order, the locals down there would be...
nope. mostly b/c i worked in places that don't behave that way.
first, i don't "go around" calling myself a waterman. i used that term to simply illustrate a point about ocean/water skills as compared to...
:rolleyes: yup...you got me. 20 + years surfing, 10 years as an ocean lifeguard, more well traveled than most, a year-round surfer who can BIKE to...
much of this week the air was really chilly when i was paddling out...1mil top was the call. lost of guys in fullsuits & short arm fulls too...
i don't WANT to "get it." that sort of police state, "it's for your own good" bs will never sit well w/ me...who are they to tell me what's for my...
that's EXACTLY my point...& the next thing you know (as i said previously), chest high will be considered "too dangerous". are you really ok w/...
who's to say what's "too dangerous"? too dangerous for me & too dangerous for shane dorian are vastly different sets of conditions. but i am AWARE...
i never said anything like that. i was suggesting that those who fail to exercise their common sense & doing something stupid & get into trouble...
if you have to ask...
yea, well...1st street is always a ****-show...esp. this time of year. labor day weekend, you just gotta expect crowds. complaining about crowds...
the excuses "they're just doing their jobs" & "it's for the greater good" have been used throughout history to justify some of the worst examples...
if someone who can't swim or can't swim well doesn't know enough to stay away from the ocean after a hurricane, then screw 'em. that's darwinism...
"we do this all winter & no one says a thing." BINGO!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykwqXuMPsoc
the great thing is that i can expect an even smaller crowd come winter...basically, just me. i love it!
