People have drowned surfing Tamrindo beach..At Negra where the main wave breaks, the water is around 20 ft deep. The wave also collapses in a uniform fashion and only will close out towards the end of a long section. I haven't seen the break perfectly clean. Hopefully I can catch a good swell there in the future.
I cut my head open surfing there. Not sure how it happened exactly, but I caught some rocks right above my eyebrow and chummed the water a bit. I agree that it didn't feel dangerous at all...I was being pretty reckless and think it was more my own fault than anything.
I was lifted out of the water and off my board by an easy 8ft shark in Frisco. Seen a picture of a 12ft Tiger shark following riders in the waves at Pea Island. You dont make yourself overly conspicuous in these places.
my buddy and I paddled out at Frisco in the beginning of November during that nor'easter. I made it out, but my friend didn't, the current was pushing pretty good...while i was sitting, waiting for a wave I saw something huge go by under me, looked lightish grey in color, not sure if it was a shark...but after reading your post, good lord, I'm glad that bastard didn't knock me off my board...I think i would have pooped just a little.