Been there and back... water was ok... definitely needed a wetsuit though. surfed HB on the 18th, the water was friggin' cold, my feet and hands hurt for about 30 minutes before the feeling stopped. then it got better on the outside for some reason... patches of warm water... pee?

Best surf was in Malibu. 3 to 5ft, glassy. I thought it would be harder, but it seems I'm in pretty good shape. managed to catch at least 4 of the set waves! Uppers and HB Pier had way worst crowd (very difficult to outpaddle anyone.. in Malibu, not so much... many kooks in the water).

alright, just wanted to let you know that it all went all. October 11th I'll go to Peru, and now that will be a surftrip!