I have been surfing for plenty of years but took about 5 years off b/c I moved away from the coast. I have been back in the water for about a year now and I am finally getting my sea legs back.
I am about 185 lbs and 5’7”. I am pretty comfortable on a long board, (8’6”) but have tried to get back on a shorter board, (6’6”) especially for faster, larger, more hollow days like 12.21 which are rare around here in VB.
Be it a combo of the cold, hard wind, cranking swell and my uneasiness on a shorter board, I found myself really backing off on 12.21. It was an epic swell but was not an epic day for me.
Any suggestions for pushing it over the ledge and going for it? I have surprised myself in the past when I did make the hairy drops. I know I have more skill than I let myself believe. Just hold back too much.
Maybe I just need to listen to some faster music and drink a couple of red bulls before I go out.
Results 1 to 10 of 17
Dec 27, 2012, 12:42 AM #1Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2012
Pushing my limits to the next level.
Last edited by marsh64; Dec 27, 2012 at 12:46 AM. Reason: strange spacing when posted. Prob my error.
Dec 27, 2012, 03:01 AM #2
Just one man's opinion but...
Move away from VB... it is truly the ball sack of the east coast for waves or just travel (OBX or elsewhere) when you can...surf good waves.
Surf with good surfers... someone to push you to go big ...a crew to amp with you can be huge.
Talk to a shaper...get boards that will help take you to the next level.
Watch videos... Archy, Gorkin, Fletcher, Ozzy... they go for it...sometimes I just watch Rodney Mullen skate videos pre surf...that dude 1. shows me how much I suck at skating but 2. makes me want to do something rad
but what do I know?
Dec 27, 2012, 03:31 AM #3Senior Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2011
- Long Island
Just go out there and take it one wave at a time..
I don't have a crew to surf with but it helps me to just look around and see the others grabbing waves. When I'm having a rough day this can get frustrating but turn that into motivation to help drive you to take that steep drop etc...
"I have surprised myself in the past when I did make the hairy drops. I know I have more skill than I let myself believe. Just hold back too much." You need to believe it !! Mind over matter.. you have done it before!
Dec 27, 2012, 11:55 AM #4
Dec 27, 2012, 01:41 PM #5
And by just going, you FORCE yourself into a position to where you HAVE to do something.
Last edited by DawnPatrolSUP; Dec 27, 2012 at 01:44 PM.
Dec 27, 2012, 03:31 PM #6
Dec 27, 2012, 03:36 PM #7Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
I'm sure I'll get flamed for this, but it is simply easier to be proficient on on a longboard. I've done both since I started surfing many years ago, and I enjoy both, but it's just true in my opinion.
I can go a looong time without riding a longboard, but then if I pull one out, it's pretty easy to pickup where I left off.... The reverse is not true. If I spend along time not riding a shortboard, it takes a while to really get back into the groove.
Dec 28, 2012, 12:58 PM #8
- Join Date
- Sep 2009
- Crystal Coast,N.C.
Dec 28, 2012, 01:18 PM #10
I find taking a good thrashing then catching a couple set waves on the head on the first wave of a session puts me in the right frame of mind and takes away any apprehension I may have had before paddling out. I don't know, maybe I'm weird but it really does pump me up to charge the hardest I can.