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Thread: lost the stoke
Mar 14, 2013, 04:03 PM #22
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Hilton Head Island - OB, SD
My quick advice is this: Just FORCE yourself to do it. No matter how bad the conditions are or how much bigger the swell is that you anticpiated. In 20 years of surfing, I have NEVER, EVER been disappointed after a session. Just bite the bullet, wake up early, put the cold out of your head, go to the beach alone and regardless if the ocean is empty, or there are 50 guys on it... Just paddle out. You will be "stoked" immediately...
It does get harder as you get older. I am 32. You are 25. So you have to keep the stoke going before you lose it all together. I have seen many friends and surfers let everything fall to the way-side. Now they are fat, out of shape and couldnt paddle out if they wanted to....
Just go... Words to live by: "Eddie Would Go"....
Think about how lucky you are to have the choice to make every day... To go or not to go... Just go. Its always worth it....
I moved from San Diego, where I surfed damn near perfect waves every day... Now I live on Hilton Head Island, where a few times a month, there is a ripples, waist to chest high... I have to motivate myself to get up and go... I get to the beach... No one is out... Your mind starts playing tricks on you... No lifeguards... I hope there are no sharks out today.... blah blah blah... All I can say is just go... Just suit up, paddle out and do it... before its too late. You will feel better every single time.
Mar 14, 2013, 04:46 PM #23
You think it's tough to go now....wait til you get into your 60's.
Kind of a bad joke there.
Not in my 60's....just sayin', wait til you get into your 60's. Bada boom.
But seriously, what Zach & others have said rings true. Just go, shut the mind down from all the noise of life & just go. And then you're right as rain once you're in the ocean.
One other note: the booze at night isn't helping. It makes you weak, it seduces your mind & saps your will, it makes it easy to stay inside, makes it easy to rationalize not going to the effort of getting the gear, makes it easy, so easy to basically, gradually, gently let John Barleycorn become numero uno & everything else fades to second place.
Been down that road. You're young. Fix it now. It's not a road you want to travel. One man's humble opinion.
I enjoyed every single one of these posts in this thread. Good stuff.
Mar 14, 2013, 04:55 PM #24Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
The posts in this thread have recharged my stoke.
Good work, bras.
Mar 14, 2013, 05:01 PM #25
Life has a way of getting in the way of your surfing if you let it. The key is to not let it happen to you. I got side tracked before with work and everyday life and almost lost my stoke a few years back in my early 20's. I was chasing a dollar bill and trying to be "successful" and ended up losing my love for life and stopped doing the things that I love to do, and surfing is one of those things. I find that no matter how much money you make, it won't change how you feel about life. It's good to have some money sure, don't get me wrong, it's the constant chasing for more that is where things go wrong. I thought if I worked hard enough i'll have enough money to retire young and surf the rest of my life but that just wasn't realistic. Now i'm 31, going to be 32 next month, been back in the water for a few years and stoked more than I ever was in my teens / early 20's.
I took a few years off from surfing, not because I quit or because I chose to one day stop, because I never did, I just looked back one day and realized I had not paddled out in forever. It happened gradually, you'll always find an excuse not to go if you are looking for one. I know I sure could, but now I just put life aside for a few hours and then when I return life is still there waiting for me to tend to, imagine that....
Mar 14, 2013, 05:50 PM #26Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
when your at work get on surfline or another website with cams and just check out some spots with swell, i know that works for me
Mar 14, 2013, 06:14 PM #27Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
inland college,then.raising small children at the same time holding a job, severely limited my time surfing.now the boys are grown and i'm back. then,the hips go bad and i'm a crippled old man who can barely get up on my board.I appreciate every wave i get,now,and don't take for granted anymore.swells where you don't score the right break/tide are frustrating when it's cold especially,but helps appreciate when you get it good.
Mar 14, 2013, 07:00 PM #28
- Join Date
- Dec 2007
Mar 14, 2013, 07:27 PM #29
I'm 43 and probably as stoked now as I was in my teens. Don't get me wrong, there was a lull there where I might get on my board 5-6 times in a year in my late twenties, early thirties. The last few years the desire has definitely come back, especially with my daughters catching the bug as well. Last summer I was in the water just about every weekend, waves or not, with my girls. My oldest pointed out, "Dad you have to keep surfing, because you are always in a much better mood when you have been in the water." Now, I am surfing year round for the first time in ages, and appreciate every session I have, good or bad. Sometimes, I have to force it, but I know the end result will be a smile. A lot has gone on in the last few years, and I agree with Lee, "the stoke is the only thing that keeps me sane." Can't imagine my life without it.
Mar 14, 2013, 08:07 PM #30Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
I like Uncle Irish's post. Nice.