" part of the game"? Sounds like it was almost game over. 5'+ at 11 seconds , cold water, and full rubber is probably a tall order to try and teach a buddy. Glad he is safe now.
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Thread: Close Calls
May 8, 2013, 02:52 AM #41Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
- Hopefully where there is swell
May 8, 2013, 02:53 AM #42Senior Member
I had a buddy with me who is new to the game and this was his second day on the water. He's a very experienced and skilled skater and snowboarder that has logged lots of time in half-pipes. I know very little transfers physically to surfing, but lots of the mentality does and the fact that he's eaten it on asphalt and concrete hundreds of times lends credence to him putting up with a beating on the ocean. Not only that, but he's an experienced endurance athlete who can run a half marathon at a good clip on short notice. So basically, he was appropriate to bring out on a day like that for some education on duck diving, board balance while getting out back, and bodyboarding some waves he could catch to feel the ride and the relationship between the board and wave.Fact. Never did I say they were a substitute for experience in the water. They can be a helpful supplement to proper water training and experience. He had me there with him talking him through everything as well as my plan for what was appropriate, attainable, and realistic. As soon as the environment showed hints of anything otherwise, I gave immediate directives to vacate with specifics on how we'd do so.
- Join Date
- Jan 2007
You need to mull this experience over and decide what you are gonna learn from this. Read your own quotes. Either you agree with your first thought, that it was appropriate to take your buddy on his second day in the water into these conditions, or your second thought, that his land experiences probably weren't going to count for much when he got into trouble in the ocean.
Your taking flak here because we've all seen and had to attempt to rescue inexperienced surfers and non-surfers get into trouble in the ocean, and the ends of jetties are where it ALWAYS seems to happen. Your describing something that is happening in the ocean every day the waves get over chest high, and still making it sound like something unforseeable occurred.
Last edited by South Bethany; May 8, 2013 at 02:57 AM.
May 8, 2013, 02:55 AM #43
I live in MA. I have surfed the last few weeks as well, all over MA, NH and ME.
You are blowing the wave height out of proportion. I say this not to try to be an a**hole, but I think a lot of people are reacting to you having a beginner out in waves of that size. You're inviting more backlash that way, when people think you're bringing a beginner into 9 foot bombing surf, when it's just not the case.
Great couple weeks of surf for sure, but if this is the scale you're using, you'll be riding 23 footers with NJshred come hurricane season.
Okay, that last part was kind of a**ish, but I mean it more to mock NJshred than anything else. Keep on getting out there and keep on training - you're right in that sense. I'm also not trying to discount your experience on the jetty. Lord knows I've had my sh** knocked around in waves smaller than 8 feet. Glad to hear you came out okay, and next time you get worked (because you will, everyone does), you'll have an experience to fall back on and know it'll be okay.
Last edited by newenglandflatness; May 8, 2013 at 02:57 AM. Reason: everyone gets worked, not just the OP
May 8, 2013, 03:44 AM #44Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
No shame in driving to the beach only to realize that the conditions are too out of control for your abilities. Happened to me plenty of times. My advice is don't get too excited to get wet, instead get a cup of joe, sit on the beach, watch the ocean at its worst and study it as much as you can. live to surf another day
May 8, 2013, 04:12 AM #45
Or was this cut-and-paste from your college essay application thing.
I tell ya, I'm exhausted just reading this thing. Forget responding with practical advice. You & your buddy Joe Frazier are alive!
Live & learn & live to surf again.
May 8, 2013, 05:42 AM #46
Yes, you can see that a number of posters felt free to fire away with flames prior to reading much of the prior dialogue as they are talking about me bringing my friend into 9 footers like it's a walk in the park.
As for wave height around here on certain days lately, there was without a doubt 9 footers a couple days and evenings at certain breaks for certain sets at certain tide heights. That was the consensus of the half dozen riders out there who are locals and far more experienced than I, some a few decades. Was it cranking off the hook at 9 feet for days on end? No. Never said it was. Was I out there in multiple sets at that height at certain times? Yes.
May 8, 2013, 05:53 AM #47
You sit there and wonder how long it took me to type and I'll sit here wondering why you're opening your trap in a non-productive way. Maybe you order off the picture menu at fast food joints since words seem scarey (new spelling courtesy of njsurfer24). Let me know, because then I can draw you a picture instead of coercing you into reading those thousand words.
May 8, 2013, 05:57 AM #48
May 8, 2013, 06:15 AM #49
"Do you want this turd in your neighborhood"
"Pit bulls are nice"
"Gore sure to receive Devil's Pineapple up the A$$ Award"
"Trash Truck videos"
"Padres grow vegetables in bull pen"
Sheldon Cooper's surfing saga should go over well.
May 8, 2013, 12:11 PM #50
Your explanation of how to measure a wave made my morning. thank you. not because it was right, or accurate, or even remotely close to how any experienced surfer measures waves, but because it made me laugh so hard i started choking on my cheerios.
And whoever called you Sheldon Cooper, gold...