What adjustments do you make to your technique when you are facing larger than normal surf? More specifically long period ground swell in the HH-DOH range w/offshore winds.
Do you typically stick to your normal routine / techniques or do you make adjustments? I find myself questioning myself a lot more as the size of the waves get larger. Should I just stick to what I know??? What do you do?
I'm just trying to increase my efficiency and catch more than I miss. Any advice from you guys getting 23 footers on the regular would be appreciated... yes you too NJShredmachine, I wanna know what you suggest too.
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Thread: Big Waves vs. Small Waves
May 7, 2013, 08:18 PM #1
Big Waves vs. Small Waves
May 7, 2013, 08:56 PM #2
This just in from the shredmachine:
"HH to DOH I just work on my car or hit the gym. You groveling pu55ies can have it"
May 7, 2013, 09:09 PM #3
May 7, 2013, 09:12 PM #4
I try to remember 2 things:
"When the wave breaks here don't be there, or you're gonna get drilled.""Fear causes hesitation, and hesitation will cause your worst fears to come true"
May 7, 2013, 10:25 PM #5
1. make sure you have the right board. being undergunned is not fun.
2. make sure you know the break, and what it involves when it gets big.
3. make sure you are in the right physical shape to deal with being caught inside.
4. trust your rail. you need it when dropping into a hollow 12 footer in a completely different way than you are used to when messing around in "normal" east coast surf.
5. pay attention to those around you. not seeing a set coming can be costly. if someone perks up and starts paddling for the horizon, do the same before you even can confirm a set is coming. you'll be first in line for a wave if there is a set, and if there isn't one, who cares...
May 7, 2013, 10:44 PM #6
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- milton delaware
In HH+ beach break with offshores, I ride a longer board to get in earlier..for me that 6'2" is gonna stay home and I'll be on a 6'6" or 7'0". Around here those waves are mostly fast and barrelling so turns arent that much of a factor anyway. But thats me, my friends will still be on their shortboards.
Paddle harder, earlier, more committed, and with the nose pointed a bit down the line to get the rail set quicker once I'm on my feet...scrubbing speed on a true bottom turn too often gets me axed. The guys who surf better than i do can pull off the bottom turn to stall to barrell in the big stuff but i just seem to get crushed.
I'm goofy, and when the conditions are like that i tend to really look for the lefts because i find those wave to be a lot more makeable frontside. I can usually get a couple of quick mid face pumps front side on the takeoff which is huge. Backside on the rights, i usually end up doing a bottom turn and losing a bunch of speed right when i needed it on the takeoff.
Last edited by mitchell; May 7, 2013 at 10:46 PM.
May 7, 2013, 10:58 PM #7
Equipment and technique wouldn't matter. But I would make sure I mailed my life insurance payment, finished up my will and wore floating dog tags.
May 7, 2013, 11:29 PM #8
May 7, 2013, 11:51 PM #9
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
- Carolina Beach
May 7, 2013, 11:57 PM #10
Thanks for the responses guys, good advice from some vets. I've been at this a while now, but never as committed as I have been the last few. All good stuff to focus on. I think what i'm getting at with this question is that when it's big like that, the sets sometimes keep me guessing at where I need to be at. Sometimes i'm in the right position catching whatever comes my way, but then there is always that set that breaks 50 yards further out than normal and you have a decision to make, scratch to go get over and out the back, or try to get into it somehow, but it appears your stuck too far inside, because that's where all the set have been showing up, this of course being a beach break, like Cocoa / Patrick's AFB, or New Smyrna / Ponce Inlet.
What do you do in those situations? My instict is to get over them and out the back, and then get ready for the right one, but by time I get through a few the set is over and now they are back to breaking further inside. It's not that i'm never in the right place, cause i am, but not as often as i'd like. Is this just normal in beach breaks when they get big?