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  1. #1

    Second and third swells

    As I learn more about ocean hydrodynamics both on the water and in the academic sense, there are more and more things I notice during my sessions.

    I've had some sessions lately that would've otherwise been awesome conditions if not for a second swell coming in from another direction. Last night, I could see that the waves intermittently had a much difference appearance on an "every other" basis. The one swell had crests and decent faces emerging that were clearly different from the others that had rounded tops and reform-like appearance.

    Just as we are supposed to hunt down the takeoff zone and ideal position in a wave, I noticed something else to scout out and certain waves that were not worth taking. What are other visuals you guys look for to seek out or avoid in wave selection and/or positioning?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Shoting Piers in Honeyton
    I look for fun, clean peaks and faces, nuff said. To much analysis makes surfing no fun!

  3. #3
    second and third swells from other directions can create sweet bowls, especially when they are of similar size. Fast, hollow bowls.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Long Buried Island

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Turtle Island
    Yais combo swells are fun.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    really only experance will help you with that one. I could tell you one thing, then next thing I know your paddeling into a closeout... you will learn. Get in the water. Put in your time.

    Look at everything. everything! here is a hint- since I would like to help you- sometimes the water color will tell you if your sitting in the right spot... if your at the peak of the sand... shallow or deep...

    could someone spell check my reply???

  7. #7
    Yup, logging that time every day. Got 4:45am til 7:15am today then going back for more at least once again today since its 88 and sunny and if there's not excitement to be seen on the water there sure as hell will be in the sand.

    I do look at everything and have learned that I've got to observe it all, especially since my primary beach break changes by the minute. Very inconsistent but it's great adaptation and I saw that when I hit up a consistent and repetitive break in NH last weekend and it seemed too easy to predict. Can you elaborate on the color of the water? Those are the types of things I've noticed.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    UGHHH! :(

    Before I went on surf forums, I had a blast surfing. I didn't know what the waves looked like until I got there. I didn't care if if the man was "green". I had fun.

    We also didn't consider it a sport, we drank a beer on the beach before we paddled out, etc...
    Last edited by bassplayer; May 30, 2013 at 01:35 PM. Reason: remembering the good ol days.

  9. #9
    You should probably stop reading surf forums then if it brings you down. Either that or just don't read my morose posts when you see a thread initiated by me.

    I had a blast this morning for 2.5 hours of dawn patrol with 3 buds and things got even better when I got digits from a looker chick that was floating on a board near me when my friends had to go to work and I stayed out later. Will also enjoy a few cold ones in the sand prior to the afternoon session today on a perfect beach day and hottest day of the year do far.

    Yeah, I have fun surfing at dawn, drinking beer on the beach, meeting new chicks in the water, and sucking less each day at physical/athletic (is that okay to classify surfing as?) endeavors due to full commitment and effort. Actually, those are all a $hitload of fun to me.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Out on the island
    this is really corny but,
    If you think of the ocean like you think of music, it has rhythms. when you go out in the junk you can have wind swells and smaller ground swells and combinations of the the two. then mix in the tidal push and rips. get in the middle of it find the back beat and boogie.
    Last edited by Peajay4060; May 30, 2013 at 02:08 PM.