thanks for the reminder. Sometimes it gets easy to forget how lucky i am!
Yeah bro- I grew up in and surfed So Cal until my late twenties. Moved to the PacNW about 8 years ago. Even though our swells up here are way more consistant than the East coast, you really don't know how good Lowers or Swamii's or even Huntington-freaking-Pier is until you're dealing with toilet bowl ripple slop that you have to pump a 10'0" log to catch. Our, umm, "surf" season is upon us though... no more kooks on soft-tops flailing about on the inside when the waves get more than waist high thank god.