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Thread: Why do you surf

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Southern California
    Honestly, there is no place I'd rather be on a cold winter day. I can't wait to sit in empty NJ lineups with my best buds, waiting for head high chocolatey water caves.

    Plain and simple, I surf because I'm addicted to it.

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by bassplayer View Post
    I once clapped for a dolphin after he jumped out of the water, like I was at sea world.
    I once got the clap from a dolphin at sea world.
    Last edited by KookieMonster; Sep 26, 2013 at 03:59 AM.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    I surf so I don't have to feel guilty about wearing board shorts.

    Seriously though, I surf because I love action sports and I live close to the ocean. Going a bit further, I love action sports because I can always get better at them, and I don't have to rely on anyone but myself.

  4. #14
    I surf because everybody I hate doesn't. When I paddle out it is 100% guranteed my boss, inlaws, co-workers, loser neighbor, etc..... won't be out with me. 100% peace.

    Oh yeah, it's fun too.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Virginia Beach
    Quote Originally Posted by Paddington Jetty Bear View Post
    Yeah really.......

    Why do you surf?

    Do you surf so you can paddle, out as a novice, into the most crowded spot you can find?

    Do you obliviously drop-in on people and just have no clue?

    Is it just another leisure activity?

    Does anyone still find the adventure and mystique of it all? Do you ever paddle out on grey, cold windy days at a deserted beach by yourself? Do you talk to seagulls?

    Has it all become too easy? Why and when did it become so "mainstream?"

    Is surfing on the same level as bikeriding and bowling?
    i might be the only serious one here but i surf to keep me sane. between all of the crap and responsibility i have at home after my dad bailed and my mom lost her job, the only thing i do for myself is surf. I surf because out of all the other BS in my life, i can walk away from it all and forget it and be happy. besides music, its the only other thing i truly lose myself in. I'm lucky that i live 5 minutes biking from my spots i surf. I thank higher powers for that everyday. this morning's session was thigh high but it was still great. why? its because I surf.

    we ride something we have no control over no matter how hard we try. We take on mother nature no matter what the conditions are. Nothing else in the entire universe matters when we are on a wave. We do it because we straight up love it.

    Only a surfer knows the feeling of getting barreled.
    Only a surfer knows.

    This quote literally gave me goosebumps the first time i saw it and i wholeheartedly believe in it. This is from Bustin' Down the Door credits.

    "Deep inside the barrel i became in tune with my inner self, nothing else matters, the hard wind and spit shooting past me from behind, my hand dragging along the wall, the light shines ahead. My long hair carried by the wind. My feet are in perfect placement on the board.

    As I lean forward I start speeding up getting faster and faster as the barrel starts to close. I crouch down until my legs start to burn and then i pull out to the whole lineup cheering. My body tingles with joy and happiness. That was the day I became a man."

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    It "ma ma ma makes me happy"

    Seagulls? I always speak to them in their own language.

    Seriously, more and more people do it because they are so cool. I'm such a loser, I go out to avoid crowds and not be seen by them. Now that you all know my life sucks because I try to avoid places like First Street on a crowded summer day when there is a wave elsewhere.

    Let the rant continue and here I go...

    I won't ever truly understand what surfing is until I go to the beach with a brand new board and have my mom take 4,782 pics of my holding a board next to a pier with a sunset behind me with a smirk that says "I am way cooler than you because I surf" not realizing that there are actually no waves (and I mean that literally, like not even knee high).

    Hey VA Beach! Guess what?! There are no waves here! None, nada zilch...ever! You should all quit. I am currently accepting surf gear donations. I will be rockin a 9 foot shortboard. You can't miss me. Your dearly departed gear will find a new home, my home.

    Fun activities to do now that you've quit...

    1. Learning seagull
    2. Coercing the said seagulls into a feast. You will feed them bread laced with xanax. They will be lazy and easy to catch or better yet, join them!
    3. Driving a go-kart on the beach. I didn't see any restrictions regarding those.
    4. Targeting dolphins while hitting golf balls in the ocean. A Seinfeld moment is in your future.
    5. Start a T-shirt company. ISn't that what everyone does at the beach?

  7. #17
    sounds like killakeil found the crackhouse on 24th street, you know the 2br with 6 range rovers in the front yard.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Turtle Island
    What else is there to do when there's waves?

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Singer Island
    I started a T-shirt company called Aquadelic. Our motto is: "Take a Liquid Trip". Never made alot of money but I have a lot of cool T shirts. I put the logo on my homemade boards. I'll get around to posting a quiver shot soon.

    I surf because it is an obsession, a release, and a great way to go through life, constantly pissed due to lack of swell, or totally surprised to find good waves, or very stoked to feel the ride, and the beauty of the ocean, and the kindness of my comrades, and the amusement of the kooks and touristas, and the thrill of travel, and the connection to a tribe of misfits.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    UGHHH! :(
    Quote Originally Posted by KillaKiel View Post
    I'm such a loser, I go out to avoid crowds and not be seen by them.
    I couldn't have said this better. I hate seeing pictures of myself surfing. I don't care what I look like. I will drive an hour out of my way to be alone.