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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Out on the island
    Posts
    1,264

    who here has been surfing this week?

    Since there is no other threads to read about the actual act of, I decided to start one. I have no idea what about so I'm just going to start rambling. If you don't like my song try writing your own.

    I went surfing these last two days in waist high peeling for days type of waves ridden on a log. The longboard is not my usual vehicle of choice in the winter. Walking to the nose is clunky for me in booties and winter suits and I find I can't make it back to the tail without that loss of balance that you end up over compensating for and falling of. But i hadn't surfed in a month and the waves by me were LB waves so ther you go. I had some sweet rides with backside fades into front side bottom turns. and did get to the nose on a few. I have a new suit booties and gloves so I've lost one more excuse on why i don't surf when the bay is frozen over. No leash needed either.

    My favorite part today was as I was heading towards the next section I had options. I could let it get ahead of me and then get around it into another nose ride in the pocket or float the lip into the next section. I was floating the lip every time. Floaters on long boards are just terrific fun if you never done it. You wobble in weightlessness for a second and come down into the next section with all kinds of momentum and that speed gives all kinds of choices on your next move. And if you don't make it there is no way to eat it that is more fun.

    So for 2 days I fed the need and now I'm sitting at my desk with a cup of soup and im ready to cram 12 hrs work into about 6 hours.

    If you've been surfing lately talk story here. Give surfing folks who sit in front of a computer for work all day something to read about the act of surfing when they want to take a break from whatever it is they are doing.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Turtle Island
    Posts
    12,783
    Images
    6
    Caught some real clean conditions at a wave I don't always frequent on saturday. Rights were the order of the day, and I got about 5 in particualr that were really really long rides.


    One I got real far ahead on the shoulder, cut back to the pocket, little cover up, back onto the shoulder, smashed the end closeout section with a real clean roll.

    barge lefts.jpg

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Out on the island
    Posts
    1,264
    that pic looks like Monday here.
    so when you hit that section and roll total weightlessness right?
    what's cool about floaters is that you are weightless but not in the air. you still connected to surface of the wave kinda sorta so you still feel its energy.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    7,109
    Headin out tomorrow

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Turtle Island
    Posts
    12,783
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    6
    Quote Originally Posted by Peajay4060 View Post
    that pic looks like Monday here.
    so when you hit that section and roll total weightlessness right?
    what's cool about floaters is that you are weightless but not in the air. you still connected to surface of the wave kinda sorta so you still feel its energy.
    yessir, total weightlessness, and a temporary lapse of time...kinda felt like everything paused after I punched my board through the lip, like halfway through the roll. Thought I lost it and was gonna fade off the back too but I landed on the whitewater.

    I'm usually on a steeper/faster wave, so it was a real treat to slow it down a tad and play with the wave more, and just watching it form, having to cut back to the pocket, and juyst watch it reform.

  6. #6
    Waves coming fri-getting stoked my bro's from cali are visiting...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    8,491
    Just got back. Waves were small, knee high, so I took a longboard (I have 8 boards , different sizes, from which to choose). Air is cold 16F, calm wind, but, I froze my arse off anyway after 45 minutes. Changing out of the wetsuite standing by the car sucks, but the hot water jug helped, as usual.
    Now, back to being board online.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Singer Island
    Posts
    4,662
    Thanks for the tale, Peajay4060. The last chance I had to surf was last Saturday am. A weak cold front brought in brisk offshores and a waist high north wind swell. It was incoming mid tide early, so I got it for a couple of hours before the wind switched and the tide killed it around 9:30. No one out but me, the lifeguard set up around the time I got out, so no hassles from the tower.

    It was not peeling, but nice form. It was kind of bumpy from the wind chop leftovers from the last few days, but the water was clear blue, the sky was sunny, and some short sweet rides were had. the wave would peter out once it hit the trough, it wasn't quite big enough to connect, but it was still fun. the drops were a bit bouncy so you never knew exactly what the first move would be. You had to angle pretty hard to the south due to the angle, and the building offshores.

    By the time I got out, the wind was honking out of the north, and the wave was starting to mush from the higher tide. A couple guys were running down the boardwalk with their boards, and I just smiled at them with an air of superiority. I didn't say it, but my smile did: "You should have been here an hour ago".

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Out on the island
    Posts
    1,264
    yep thats what im talking about.


    who else been surfing?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Chiba City
    Posts
    431
    Prank and I got out Monday around 2:30 for a 90 minute session. Waist-stomach and relatively clean. Good times as air temp was around 60! Got kinda sketchy half-way through as initial rain storms turned into fog.

    It was eerie surfing as a serious fog bank rolled in. Fog horns from passing ships only lent to the macabre sensation. You couldn't see the waves well enough to judge, so we just relied on sound. If you could hear something promising heading your way, you just turned and went for it. Prayer and a wing kinda thing. Some crazy drop ins when you aren't sure what the hell is going on! As a few other lost souls were sharing in the revelry, you really had to be aware of your surroundings.

    Glad some of y'all got some too.