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  1. #6331
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    7,856
    Quote Originally Posted by Betty View Post
    Caught about five knee to thigh highs today. The last was the best one, the one that put a grin on my face.

    Today was the first day in 8 weeks I was able to walk to the ocean from the car. Granted I was unable to walk back, but this is huge and makes me think I can keep healing.

    It felt so wonderful to paddle out against waves that had some mild push to them. We all know that feeling of Ahhhhhhhh! , as we first paddle out.

    The legs are still tricky, cannot do much once popped up, can't crouch yet, or move the feet up and down the board to shift weight.

    But that wonderful feeling of feeling the back of the board lift up and accelerate still is the ticket
    Keep up the good work, and congrats on the effort--I am sure we are ALL rooting for your better health!!

  2. #6332
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    dirtyjerz
    Posts
    641
    Images
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by Betty View Post
    Caught about five knee to thigh highs today. The last was the best one, the one that put a grin on my face.

    Today was the first day in 8 weeks I was able to walk to the ocean from the car. Granted I was unable to walk back, but this is huge and makes me think I can keep healing.

    It felt so wonderful to paddle out against waves that had some mild push to them. We all know that feeling of Ahhhhhhhh! , as we first paddle out.

    The legs are still tricky, cannot do much once popped up, can't crouch yet, or move the feet up and down the board to shift weight.

    But that wonderful feeling of feeling the back of the board lift up and accelerate still is the ticket
    Agreed with Barry. Glad you still had some fun ones though!


    Caught a few handfuls of knee high waves on the log today. Nice sunny day with off shore winds in the morn. Haven't really been longboarding in a while so I guess it's nice to change it up. I'd rather be on my shortboard or mini, but I got a few cross steps in today and some long rides.

  3. #6333
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Chadwick
    Posts
    1,678
    Quote Originally Posted by yankee View Post
    Yesterday (Saturday):
    departed concrete canyon land 0300, arrived TPTSNBN 0530. Spot check N Beach revealed not much happening, yet 25+ people with various boarts in the water already @ 0600.


    Low was 0640ish. Hit TPSNBN. Paddled out 0645ish.TPTSNBN is almost always best around low-to-incoming-high, butt the first 2 hrs after dead low......after that, the incoming high isn't as strong a push with waves, as well the AI Fakeout commences. Lotta people miss wave after wave that seems to stand up outside only to slack roll down & then pick up on the inside bar. Ergo, the AI Fakeout.

    Was so crowded at the top of the OSV. Summer hordes. Lil dudes on giant corky boarts. And they could surf. Ugh.

    Anyways 37 waves, according to Trace (toss 1/3 of those, if anyone has Trace you know why) before bailing at 0930. Traffic = 4 hr drive back.

    The bars are holding up & are close in. Lotta fun on the Drifter. Several decent long lefts, surprisingly, to practice turns on the big boart. Good day of surfin'.
    Great report, thanks. Is that drifter a harbour? Atlantic/neptune beach nfla do the fakeout, too.

  4. #6334
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Central FL
    Posts
    14,386
    Still a little bump out there to ride but it's weak compared to the last couple days so I held off. Yesterday was too fun to ruin the feeling.

  5. #6335
    since i had ppls rolling in on Friday for the wknd, i was able to get several hours in that morning for DP. Crowds were expected after Thursday's clean, glassy swell. semi chop thi to rare waist at the end of Washout. went out with a couple buds. glad the other end of the block got crowded while we took to our own thang. rights and lefts were available, brought the LB thinking it was not gonna be as swell. only problemo was that it was pretty shallow so the wipeouts were pretty brutal. the next day i took to the west of the pier, taught my older bro n his wife. Both got up for the first time, which i mark down as a success. she was better (yoga inclined) getting up a couple times while he was one big imbalanced dude (said the board lessons in hawaii were useless because the board was too small for him). nothing to seriously brag about for their wave riding skills, but the conditions were a lot worse

  6. #6336
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Monmouth Beach, NJ
    Posts
    4,522
    Dreaming of something like this???


  7. #6337
    Had a blast this weekend. Small weak waves so I borrowed my neighbors foam LB. Paddled around with my son on front... Every time I'd paddle for a little bump he'd scream and laugh. Got tired after a while, but he'd start crying every time we'd get out.
    Finally let me get out my wife had an ice cold beer waiting for me.
    Probably the most fun I've ever had hanging at the beach.

    I am sore

  8. #6338
    Quote Originally Posted by nynj View Post
    Had a blast this weekend. Small weak waves so I borrowed my neighbors foam LB. Paddled around with my son on front... Every time I'd paddle for a little bump he'd scream and laugh. Got tired after a while, but he'd start crying every time we'd get out.
    Finally let me get out my wife had an ice cold beer waiting for me.
    Probably the most fun I've ever had hanging at the beach.

    I am sore
    Dude that is awesome!!

  9. #6339
    Quote Originally Posted by beachbreak View Post
    Great report, thanks. Is that drifter a harbour? Atlantic/neptune beach nfla do the fakeout, too.
    Chris Ruddy. Easy guy to talk boarts with & get you a kustom. He used to be the guy behind the Ukelele brand. The entire moniker for the boart is Ruddy Shovel Tail Drifter. Luv me this boart. Fun, challenging, fast, maneuverable, great wave catcher. Most fun I've ever had on a boart in on the Driftah....

  10. #6340
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Central FL
    Posts
    14,386
    I took the LB out for a paddle this morning. Great weather and a beautiful sunrise, so I figured why not, might as well get wet. There was a little knee / thigh high line coming in, pretty weak compared to last few days but I still snagged a few, then paddled for a while, snagged a couple more, paddled back to where I began, and caught a few more. Nothing special but waves were ridden.