5/17/14 swell

word up hippie

 

I only go out when it's DOH+

Tomorrow afternoon is lining up quite dopely at my secret spot with tide being timely also. Sunday looks like a pause before shoulder and clean on Monday with a couple more double-digit period days following.

God Bless medium period on the EC. Told you braws it was going to be a spring of stoke in total and after this swell it will have been even with the last couple weeks going silent. Life's been good in boardshorts (and 5/4 wettys) round these parts since bout Jan 3rd or so.

 

Just woke up to a red sky with thick clouds covering both the sun and moon. The drink is stirred with action and winds are backing off as early as 11am. Sun coming out later in the day and the break of choice is set to crank clean. The 5-day swell report just went all offshore at medium period. Spicoli is effin stoked. Gonna let it all hang out this weekend and up the surf game multiple levels. Only uncertainty is which weapon to greet this swell with. Hope all you bros score hard.

FLY A BANNER FOR THIS STOKED STREAK OF SPRING SWELL

 

alwaays morning sickness man... why is that?

 

Easy. There's a bun in your oven. Now go surf all day!!!

 

my beach had it but got over it by 7:00am. nice, clean 4/5footers, i went to ****** beach and for
sure i wasn't alone. but got some good rides, plenty of waves for a hungry crew so i'll put it in the win
column and maybe grab a few later if wind cooperates.

 

Funner than it looked from the beach... A little disorganized, but nice size and plenty of juice. A bit of east in it, so it wasn't really lining up, but you could still get yer ya-yas out. Bunch of local guys out first thing, then some non-locals showed up. But with waves EVERYWHERE it still wasn't bad. First sesh in the 3/2 felt good.

 

how did u survive in a 3.2,did u have boots and mitts on?water is pretty cold

 

This wind thoigh

 

3/2, no gloves, 3mm boots. And I'm an frail old man. 3mm gloves would have been ok, but I'm done with it till fall.

 

My favorite break was clean this evening and the weather was perfect. Got out there for 2 hours with a couple buds and we switched off on different boards for fun. Size was good with waist to shoulder high glass. Period was only 8s so it was still a bit shifty with narrow takeoff spots but that will all change tomorrow with 12s coming in.

The break changed by the minute with tide but they were all good changes. It's a lesser-known spot so the 6 other guys out there aside from us was the most I've ever seen there. They were all very cool and friendly and were purely ripping so that was all good in the hood.

Had to duck dive quite a bit in the 2 hours as lines weren't wide and lots of narrower waves coming in non-stop. Tell you what, that water is still cold as hell on the head when you have to punch through 2-4 in a row. 3/2 was fine on the body but 1.5mm gloves were a bit insufficient at this point. Water felt in the high 40s but was advertised by NOAA as being several degrees higher. 3mm boots were fine for at least 90 minutes.

Starting to think I should base board choice more by period length than anything else. Still know it's a holistic decision but I can catch waves fairly well on a SB these days in anything more than a couple feet (even sometimes in that) though have been way more stoked in windswell on the 7'6 lately. Squeezed a 12-second ride out of a thigh-to-waist high wave on that thing today by pumping through 3 sections and getting bottom to top and back down on each.

Would've scoffed at myself months ago for saying this but definitely getting an 8'6 or longer to throw in the quiver for June-August. I'm ok with an LB as long as sharper turns are possible and Gaffer was right - you can still rip on a longboard. Didn't know it til my skill level could accommodate anything resembling even elementary shreddrey.

Let's hear more score reports buoys. Spicoli wishes the best for each of you and only the finest stoke.

 

Left the crib at the arse crack of dawn to charge DP as stats and tide looked promising enough for at least some mild fun on the 7'6. Negative. Sat at the breaks (and drove between them) for a frustrating 90 minutes waiting for it to change. Period and wave height mean little to me now when there is under 50kJ power forecasted, and that's being generous. Blows my mind that we can have juice yesterday and then tomorrow and Tues but zilch this morning. The evening looks like it should definitely be rideable so I'll try to float on evening scraps then eat seafood with a figure skating wahine after.

There were two SUPers who stroked out and then these two FOGs headed out with logs. Did they not understand that the 18-24" swell that was a long, wide line closing out? I stayed a few extra minutes just to see what they expected to get. Not sure even now what they anticipated but what they got were barely takeoffs then falling into weak shorebreak mush. Brave men having to listen to their old ladies' crap all day now just for that rubbish. At least they seemed stoked!

Was stoked last night for sure and thankful there is certain scoring the next two days. Just sets an otherwise good Sunday back asswards when I've been up for almost four hours with nothing achieved except a headache. C'est la vie para el surfista. Nap time.

 

modern gloves light; not the same as carrying a ten pound dumbbell in each hand…(how'd i get SO TIRED
SO QUICK)??

 

1.5/2 mil gloves FTW!

perfect to keep the chill off. b/c **** my hands being cold.

 

All weather and surf reports called for WSW at 9mph all day. Round 1p the winds went straight onshore for the rest of the day.... the hell?
Morning was fantastic though, just wished there was more

 

Yea Emass! I'm telling you, you won't regret getting a LB. Like you said, or gaff said, you can still rip on them.

Yesterday was awesome. I wrote about it in the "well??" Thread. It was HH/OH early. Only 4 guys out, all hooting and woooing for each other. Sick vibe and awesome waves. There was actually some texture to it and some of the left's would close out, but if you knew what ones to go for it was all good.

Today was really good to. Got to the beach super early expecting a crowd soon. Waist/chest high glass. 5-7 mph offshores. Lefts were fast and walling up, the rights were a bit more shouldery. So many great waves. As the crowd filled in the conditions got a bit more disorganized so I got out.

The high I'm on from these past two days I have not felt in a long time. I know it's just a forecast but the whole week is green except one day which is blue. I don't see that holding up but knowing theres going to be possible opportunities gets me excited

And I realized the same thing about the water today. I'm still in a 5/4, my thinnest gloves are 5s and my only pair of boots are 7s. Needed new gear but never got around to getting it so I'm just making what I got work. Anyway I had my hood peeled back, the water was deffinitly pretty cold on my head. Felt good since I was a bit warm in a 5/4 but waters deffinitly still pretty cold

 

We got really good waves this weekend! The water here has warmed up to 71 degrees and the swell is still lingering albeit it much smaller but very clean. I'm surfed out and couldn't muster up the energy to get up this morning but may hit it again if the off shores last through the afternoon. That was much needed and I finally got to ride my new board which made it even better.

 

heres how my weekend started out!!! Jammed outta work on friday to the beach to find the wind had held off and the South swell had started filling in. Hope you guys on the east coast got some waves as well!