\"And then I realized that experienced surfers have it backwards: we’re the kooks—because apparently, the longer you surf, and the better waves you surf, the bigger of a d*ck you become.\"\r\n\r\n\r\nWith so much hostility in the crowded line up during the summer it really kills the spirit of why I like getting wet and almost dread going to my local line up.\r\n\r\nEveryone should read this and make it a point to relax and have some fun. There will always be another wave...\r\n\r\nhttp://www.surfermag.com/blogs/rob-gilley/
I completely agree, its about sharing the ocean, especially when there are only 2 of you out on a very mediocre day and 1 guy wants to paddle for everything like he is in a heat - for example (after many prior instances) paddle across the back of you as you are going for a wave and claims that he popped up before you - then finding out that the kooks fin peirced your board. Karma is a b*tch and it will come back around in some way. Real surfers know etiqutte exemplifying it in the ocean and is out to have a good time with whoever else is out there, not battle like they are in a contest (especially if they aren't even good). We are all out to enjoy the same thing, so don't be a d*ck - enjoy the sport, don't ruin it for everyone else. There is a lot more to surfing than just catching waves.
I don't necessarily agree... It may be true for some, but not for all. I think it's more like a bell curve: Beginners are generally not d*cks. But then as they get better, maybe even begin to compete, it goes to their head and they become a$$holes. Then as they age, and have less to "prove" (to others, but mostly to themselves) they start to mellow out again. I've met a few old school pros, and some of them are just as soulful and grateful and generous as you can get (Greg Noll, Gerry Lopez, Rob Machado). Others... not so much (I'll leave these names out). But that's just for some. For others... well... my philosophy has always been, "you're either a d*ck or your not," meaning some people just never get it. But let's face it... 9 d*cks out of 10 are wannabes... er, I mean... "aspiring pros." But then I guess if you make surfing your job, it takes on new meaning.
beginners aren't kooks, they are just stupid. It's when they stay stupid as they progress is what makes a kook. the key phase in the whole blog was "do you mind if we surf here?' That shows respect right off the bat, not some sense of entitlement that many mid-atlantic summer surfers seem to have.
