CORRECTION WOMEN CAN AND SHOULD STRETCH ON THE BEACH BEFORE SURFING [video=youtube;6bQ6SGW9smY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bQ6SGW9smY[/video]
If the crowd hoots you into an outsider, don't puss out even if it's a deathwall. Do a swan dive off the lip or something if it's not makeable. Cave to pier pressure.
True! LOL. Oh man, I have caved to peer pressure and gotten annihilated so many times. Every time, I popped right up and paddled back out, pretty-much unscathed.
no you should and I know I have this down pat slowly push up off your board and stand come to a full standing position facing the beach,but don't stare long turn slowly so you are facing the ocean reach with your hand and reposition your hair by running your fingers through it pulling it back slowly reach down and pick it up your board and begin to walk out again if you don't have long hair then just stand up fist pump and head back out
Always travel wearing a surf brand shirt, hoodie or something... Especially in sensitive areas like Manhattan. It let's the security types known you aren't acting "funny" because you are a potential threat, it assures them you are just a drug-addled surfer. They're looking for things that go "Boom" or "Pop." Stoned surfers don't register these days. We're cool. Nah, some people are a-holes and paddle around. If I'm sitting right at the end of a jetty and some dude paddles and sits right in front of me or a foot closer to the jetty...well that's a bad person. But I don't paddle out near people anyways. I'm all aboot the "first-come-first-served" paradigm these days. Lifeguards? Always buy your lifeguard a scratch-off lottery ticket on Labor Day. Artsy-farsty? I always loved this quote from a mag during the Momentum-era: " A portrait of the young surfer as a poet and artist." Or something like that.... Just because you are in Europe on a cloudy day writing sh!t on paper don't make one an artist. You should only be angry missing a wave of unusual goodness. Missing that 3 footer ain't that big of a deal. There will be another. Stretching. Yes, don't do that on the beach. Don't do a exercise routine on a summer, two-foot day as the tide continues to turn bad...... Man, there was this one dude a few summers ago.....like 30 minutes of it. Friggin Richard Simmons over here. Every time I saw him. And it was always two foot. Surfing is very serious. Got to be limber. Performance.
Sharks... Unless you frequent Ano Nuevo don't sweat it. Yeah, them desolate, spooky days always will play with the mind on solo excursions, but...... If you live, you'll probably get some good pills. And that's always worth it.
Choose early: You going to be a surfer? Or a family man that surfs? Being a surfer is painful a lot of times. Being a family man makes you have "the grass is greener on the other side" syndrome, as you age. "In life one must chose between suffering or boredom" (Forget author) What type are you?
If someone (me) is sitting there all by themselves waiting patiently for a wave and there is nobody else within 100 yards, do not paddle out or paddle over to them (me) and sit next to them (me) or inside or outside of them (me). Give them (me) space. I mean cheese and rice! WTF is wrong with you dudes who do that? If you just sat 50 yards to the left or right, you'd have your own peak too. Give your fellow surfer room to move dudes.
Get your own peak brah! Miles of ocean out there and you want to tag along? Nah, i'm good, i'll continue to paddle down the beach to my own peak till you get the hint. HAHA Unless I recognize you and don't mind your presence.
Now if it's crowded it's crowded. I can handle myself in the crowd. I'm talking about when i'm the only person within eye sight.
I started to stretch out watching her stretch out. If you actually call a wave you must go or except being burned for the rest of the sesh. Don't get peeved if I'm staring at your daughter, wife or grandmother a** if she's wearing a thong while surfing. Thanks to your daughter or wife for for wearing a thong whilst surfing.
Humans enjoy company even if they arent enjoyable company. Plus you're probably sitting at the sweet spot on the bar. Its nothing personal.
I doubt it. I think it's because lots of folks are afraid to surf alone, they figure they have a 50/50 shot at not getting bit by following someone around. I however am not afraid. Perhaps my surfing alone so much has made me anti-social and greedy, IDK. Maybe it's different up your way, but around here, you can walk the beach and find unlimited peaks and can have your very own solo sesh and hog every wave if you want. What's not to love about that? Why would you want me taking 50+% of the waves you could of had? Doesn't add up
I like surfing with other people. Makes me surf better. End result I enjoy it more. Either I get to see how to do it better or worse. Both of which help. But I mean if its just me and one other guy ill sit down the beach but kinda close. Unless its breaking better there.
