No. No, it's not good at all if the giggling dude telling you that in the windowless white van of doom is waynetheinsaaaane.
27 - I've been surfing religiously for about 8 years. Even though life changes, I doubt I'll ever stop!
Bro, what are you, some math magician? Starchy, watch out for rcarter and his voodoo math that other suthnas can't come close to computing.
I'm 33, started surfing at 15, was off and on for years until I finally got committed and starting driving to the E. Coast every single weekend 3-4 years ago. Having enough cash to fill the gas tank every week was the challenge for many years and is a big reason why I wasn't committed as much as i should have been, it's hard filling up a gas tank only to empty it in the same day when you barely have enough money for food.... So fast forward till I turned 29 and I finally made enough money to afford the trip every single week. At 30 I made a pledge to myself that I would give surfing 110% for the next 10 years to see how good I could get but also to make it more of a lifestyle. I wanted all the health benefits that go with surfing regularly. I found out it was more than just physically beneficial, it turned into a spiritual thing, and gave me balance in my life. I don't go to a traditional church anymore, I just paddle out and have my time with God and his creations. I was tired of being fat & lazy, drinking beer all the time and just hanging out with my bros. When I would go surfing I would be terrible because of how out of shape I was and how long it had been between sessions, and the fact that I was rarely ever sober. Needless to say, it turned my life around. I still drink beer, but with more control, and I don't just "hang out" all the time anymore. I get my butt out of bed before the sun is up and I drive 2.5hrs and am in the water at first light / sunrise. Then I surf 4hrs and turn around and drive back 2.5hrs, or my wife and I get a hotel and stay for an entire weekend so I can get 4-5 sessions in a couple days. Believe it or not, my wife had a lot to do with me getting fully committed. While there are times where she wishes we weren't taking another trip, she understands and supports me in my commitment to surf. Now at 33 i'm a way better surfer than I ever was in my teens / 20's and I just keep getting better every session. The growth is exponential at this point and that just fuels my stoke even more. I can't imagine how much better i'll be by time i'm 40. At that time, i'll rededicate myself again and pledge to give it 110% for another 10 years. Hopefully I'll be able to do this until the day I die.
