i got in after 3 in southern moco and it was firing. so happy i got one last good one in before it get ballfreezingcold
Pretty fun in Delaware this morning. I'm sure it was bigger in New Jersey. It was consistently 3-4 in the morning, but there was this rogue wave that was easy 6ft that surprised everyone in the lineup. Not a set, just one wave!
Big, drifty, and lots of bump in OCNJ. It was a lot of work but there were definitely some macking open pits if you were persistent. Water is still warm too! #StayAbovetheWeather
Yeah it was real fun in seaside today. about 5-6ft (shoulder to head in my opinion) regulars. The best part was that I guess cause of how the sand was sitting today, they were large and really slopey. Like big bunny slopes. It made the drop soo easyyy. Those are my favorite days, when it's big but not too steep. so ripabllee!!!
No Mo Co was firing. I didn't get out 'till 3 but it was still pumping when I first got out. My first two out of three waves were nice little cover-ups. As the tide dropped the swell started to fade, but really good all day from what I heard. I wish it was like this more often...
yesterday in WB was soooo fun. stomach-chest glass, peaky, almost like a skatepark. Cloudy all day, was around 55 degrees, water was 64, an 18ft great white was spotted 20mi off the coast, it was an all around great day. most ripable surf i've surfed in...well i guess months. i need more. i need more!!!
I haven't been able to get out for like a month due to various issues (car, work, holiday travel). Got on it this afternoon and got WORKED, haha. It's funny how quickly those paddling muscles fade when ou don't surf for a while...
Odd day for me. Got to the beach with a short window to surf before I had to get to work - like 30-45 mins. It was big, drifty, thumping but looked super fun. But not a soul in the water. I mean nobody. And this was like 930 a.m. I made this promise to myself and my wife when my first kid was born 5 years ago that I'd never surf alone again. Admittedly, I have broken it a few times on small days, but I had this weird feeling that this was not a day to do that. Still, I thought, "just catch one or two." So I started to put on my suit, but then had a weird feeling and couldn't stop thinking of my kids and thought better of it and went to work. But damn, you could tell it was gonna be super good once it got a bit more organized.
Thats rough, but respectable. Had about 2 hours in some great waves in a pretty empty spot until it got dark. Wish night surfing was easier.
I'm here in RI right now for work and right before dark I drove to Ruggles just to see what it looked like and it looked tastey, it looked like Trestles today
after sleeping on yesterday's swell that was top 5 swells of 2011 for monmouth county. i saw more stand up barrels yesterday then the irene swell.
I got two kids and surf alone whenever I can...Unless it's sketchy big or something. Heck, I prefer to surf alone or with just a buddy ow two. I dunno, call me selfish.
I scored a usually packed spot in Mo Co zone with 3 people out. It was as good as it gets. I got too many waves for 5 hours. Rights and some deep tubes. People are retarded. 30 guys out when its waist high then 3 dudes out when its head high and breaking perfectly. Good day yesterday.
We're all selfish when it comes to surf, brudda. Like I said, I do surf alone too. To use your words it was "sketchy big" or damn close to it. Also, I seriously should have been on my way to work already and knew it would take me a more time than I had to get my bearings and deal with the current in that swell. It was a weird moment. some gut bad feeling. Very odd, which is why I mentioned it. It'd be Interesting to hear if other people are a bit more conservative and take fewer risks once they spawn. Maybe I'll start another thread on it. Peace.
I has same feeling that day. Made it out but had feeling in pit of stomach and called it early. Having young kids makes you feel mortal and you 2nd guess everything. I guess its normal but it sucks.
2 the two guys that didnt surf because they have kids........ Where were u at? IT wasnt THAT big. Definitely some great barrels though for sure. JUst wear a Life Vest! HAhaha maybe a Helmet depending on how many kids you got..... Making it sound like it was like double overhead or something. MAybe try that new wave jet! hahahahahahahaha