Anyone have interesting info on the science behind surfing?

good stuff

 

From a neurological perspective, you don't have to be nuts, but it helps. Also, don't surf dungeons.

 

I'd like to see something on the dynamics of duck diving.....such as, the bigger the wave does that mean the faster you get rolled through & under the wave if you time it right? Does an incoming wave actually suck a duck diver through under the wave due to physics? (water racing in aka wave is pushing objects underneath it out aka duck diver)

 

Have you seen the full movie? Info on storm/wind patterns, etc...and IIRC they do some testing with crash test dummies and g-force meters to measure the impact.

 

Listen, I know you guys like talking aboot this kind of stuff. But let me give you a little advice. Don't over-analyze surfing. Surfing isn't a science. It's aboot looking at that wave and saying, "Hey, bud, lets party"

Really, knowing the equivalent weight of a 20 foot wave based on bottom and swell and all isn't going to do anything for you. They won't even ax you aboot that on Jeopardy.

Today's surf world is too proper. It is also trying to make it too scientific. A laptop computer isn't a required piece of equipment to surf. Shun the modern day world, and go surf. New Jersey's 1-2 foot today. Go out and forget it all.

Thanks for your attention and don't get all upset by this. It's just a suggestion.

 

Its aboot time you came back...

 

I'm always with you Fitz.......always. I'm a ghost, dude, I can go anywhere.

I've been watching Juliaep in the shower for the past two weeks.

And I've been hiding Chiccarrone's weed and bowls for a while now. It's funny watching him look for his sack. "I knew I put it right here....where is it?"