are you a arrogrant surfer?

LOL, that's what I meant!

 

Robot Di*k

 

I believe it would be "an" as in, are you an arrogant surfer?

 

I posted this before (awhile ago) but I caught myself complaining about the waves one time right when a guy in a wheelchair said to me "man I wish I could be doing what you get to do". Every time I find myself complaining about something others only dream they could do, I quickly get some perspective.

 

I totally do this. I pretend the waves suck and that im not having fun. I do it so people think im better than I actually am.

 

How about when your running onto the beach to check the waves because you heard its been pumping all day and you finally got off work and you cant wait to surf. Then, some d1ckhead that just got out of the water walks past you and says, "dude it sucks, it was way better this morning". Its like getting slapped across the face with a cold, raw piece of steak when your not expecting it.

 

This is truth. A lot of people don't really realize how much they have until its gone or there is a perception of what could be gone. And health is huge.

My mom sent me an inspiring quote the other day, "Don't wait for things to get better. Life will always be complicated. Learn to be happy right now, otherwise you'll run out of time."

So during these lulls, learn to appreciate other aspects of life, or focus your energy in a way that's going to make you a better person or time may simply get away. It's a lot easier to preach and a hell of a lot harder to act. That's my sermon for the day.

I'm blessed with some South windchoppe' tonight YEW.

 

Right on. I consider myself very fortunate that I am able to do this surfing bort riding thing. Heck, I'm lucky that I can go down to the beach anytime I want. Think aboot the poor schmucks that live in Kansas or some place like that. Ugh. I live in a location that doesn't get much good surf but I try not to complain aboot it. Just had two days of knee high short period choppe and it was great. I appreciate every moment I spend in the brine.

 

In all honesty, to have a maximum surf experience, and spread the aloha, the pura vida, the stoke, it is best when I don't compare.

If I don't compare this day to an epic, or even decent day of waves, then to be out in little mush is great.

If I don't compare how I surf today with how I surfed yesterday, or how well I rode the previous wave, then the ride is in the moment and a great and magical thing.

I have become a bit jaded, and thanks for the perspective ya'll.

 

Whoa, whoa....the people in Kansas are probably saying, "Think about the shmucks that live where there is surf--they have to like the ocean while we here in Kansas can ride our tractors in big cornfields".

 

I am never jaded. Never.

 

And I am happy for them if they feel that way. While I may feel sorry for them I do hope they stay in Kansas or wherever. The ocean sucks. It's dangerous and smells bad.

I ran into a kid from Iowa a few years ago at the beach. It was his first time ever seeing the ocean. His "friends" took him out in some chest high choppe for "surf lessons". He was struggling and truly hating it. He still had Rick Kaine-like dreams of moving to Hawaii to surf though.

 

Sadly, I fondly remember that swell.

 

Oh papi chulo.

 

HAHAHA! I Do this all the time. I usually tell guys they should grab a bigger boart. they always get so pissed

 

Yeah man. When its OH, I'm happy. The very next day it could be knee high..... I'll be just as stoked. I truly feel bad for people who don't surf. My life is so special because of it. Iv met so many great people because of it. I see things ill remember for ever because of it. Every time i go to the beach to surf in reminded how lucky i am. There are people who live on the very same loooong island as me, bored with there lives. There's nothing to do or see. I think its beautiful. Sunsets or sunrises from the water, an empty beach covered in snow, the wildlife, and the joy that riding a wave gives.

 

I have never met a happy person from Kansas.

 

This is arrogance at its best. There is a certain pride to consider yourself a "true" local.
Wellput Bassmon!

 

Yeah i call those pea cockers , strutting around with their feathers out doing their mating dance for no reason . But they are fun to watch when their self driven aggravation meets their arrogance . Kinda like a 3 year old thats throwing a tantrum because doesn't want to eat his cooked veggies . You just got to let them do what their going to do , they will tire themselves out eventually .
i figured mother nature too will get the better of them , send them back to the beach with their tail between theirs legs . I have been there a few times , slow learner and all . i think ever surfer goes threw that stage in some ways . We're territorial animals , some more then others .

 

I know... this is why I rent now