While we're waiting for pipe...and for those bored with trolls and any non-surfing stuff... Something about this sequence just captivates me. Like the first time I saw a real Picasso, not that printed crap. It was at MOMA in NYC and I stopped and just stared at it for a while. I don't pretend to understand art and I'm no lifetime pro surfer but everytime I look at this sequence I just have to pause and absorb it all in. There's just something sublime about it. Y'all pros can tell me exactly why its so arresting if ya like.
For me, it's about being able to put yourself in the shot. Not saying I can do what he's doing, but it's like I can feel what he's feeling. I think that's what all good art does... creates a feeling in the viewer... or listener or taster or whatever the medium of the art is. It somehow connects to you on some visceral level.
Its the energy,simplicity,power of the wave , thats why to me, surfing is the sh!t, i get to be a part of some pretty majestic waves once in awhile...
Interesting point and something I hadn't considered. I think there are people in the world who are tuned to notice these things though, even if they can't put themselves in the shot. Some people can be stopped in their tracks by a beautiful sunset, a gorgeous wave, a perfect photograph, etc. While others it seems are just oblivious to these things and only see where the next meal is coming from. Good stuff LBCrew, I agree there just seems to be some connection. I really like that its the entire sequence, and the largest frame really focuses on the climactic moment. The way Dane is just hanging there, defying gravity, only the tiniest edge of his rail on the thinnest part of the lip. Perfection from an artist. A masterpiece.
