Assistance with board decision..etc

Discussion in 'Mid Atlantic' started by jboosted92, Mar 22, 2017.

  1. jboosted92

    jboosted92 Member

    11
    Mar 22, 2017
    I have been surfing in the delmarva region for the past year. 2-3 days a week, with some weeklong ventures. here is my issue. ( 5' 11 170 , Fitness ability = 10/10 Paddling = strong)

    Like all recommended, i started on a foam top longboard. 1-2 foot waves and even when an epic dAY came in 6-8 foot. As you may know, delmarva (Del. / OC MD) 90% of days, its a pitchy beach break, and when there is size, 3-6+, even faster on the beach break.

    Logic told me, ok, go from a 9 Foot board, down to a 7'6" board. I picked up a nice triple stringer, plenty of volume 7'6". I have taken this thing in teh water about 30 sessions... all through the winter. Here is what i have noticed:

    1. If its a CLEAN 2-3 foot day, it can catch waves (10% of the time)
    2. like the other 90% of the time, the waves range from 2 - 6 feet most days, pitchy fast beach break. This board cannot catch waves as soon as the longboarders and if i try the "late takeoff" the below occurs
    a. I attempt to angle, to avoid pitching, but that works rarely
    b. after about 60 waves, i said to myself ok "Paddle your ass off, chin down/legs up, and pop up a little earlier and fast as hell ( pop up speed is not an issue)...." with this i would get stuck at the top of the wave ALOT. if there was offshore, almost guaranteed.
    c. If i took another option "make sure i was down the face of hte wave" i would get one of the two results
    1. By the time i popped up (Angled or not) a majority of the time the wave was done.
    2. Pearl City.

    THis past week, (After months of surfing) surfing has "Slowed down for me" , meaning, i KNOW whats going on, paying alot of attention to what the wave is doing ,what the board is doing ,what i am doing.

    it was a sideshore but good size day, plenty of waves head high +.... 10 guys in the water... the longboarders were getting the waves further out ( as expected ) and the shortboarders where EASILY just making sure they were in the pocket, late drop, nice and easy pop up. boom

    me however, i was in the middle, and here is what i found. The pearling was happening (i believe) because too much volume in the tail rocker, but not enough OVERALL volume to catch these waves out with teh longboarders (hence the pop up on the "top of the wave" )

    other advice has been to try a smaller board ( reccomendations - Firewire Dominator) , however i like to "Collect alot of advice" and make an informed decision. My goals are to shortboard eventually. however i hate blaming equipment. that same day i moved to a different break that was clean, but fast and pitchy and i knew Paddling out would be a waste because the board couldnt get into the pocket.

    So my questions are

    1. Does this make sense? Anyone else with this experience?
    2. Advice?
    3. Get the shortboard, even if struggle , but at least i wont have the tail rocker/late drop issue
     
  2. BassMon2

    BassMon2 Well-Known Member

    Jan 27, 2015
    I don't know man. Hard to say. But here are my thoughts

    1) at your size and the paddle ability you claim to have, i don't think you should be having trouble CATCHING waves on that 7'6. For instance you mentioned getting stuck at the top of the wave. Your either not as strong of a paddler as you claim/think or you don't have good technique. Maybe explaining you positioning on the board could help us help you. The angled take off should be working for you. Don't take offense, non is intended.

    2) As for your board, what's the shape like? Rocker? Some people like nose rocker in there boards, especially on steeper waves. I Don't. I prefer low nose rocker because i feel it helps me paddle into the wave earlier and get my speed up, and i don't have pearling issues. Its really about personal preference. But i figured I'd give you my 2 cents on the subject. So what are the details on your board?

    3) LBs are a completely diffrent thing. Unless your on a LB, you'll probably never catch waves as early as them.

    4) diffrent waves will call for diffrent approaches. My main good wave board is a 5'8. If the waves are harder to get into, sometimes i need to inch you the board and get more weight forward to catch and drop down the face. When it's standing up more, i need to get back more.

    Again no offense is intended, but my gut is telling me you just need to practice and get the techniques down. Getting a new board without getting the technique down will only result is more frustration. I too don't like blaming equipment, but sometimes you just don't habe the right board for the day. However this doesn't sound like your problem to me.

    Fill us in on your positioning on the board when paddling and the specifics of your board.
     

  3. jboosted92

    jboosted92 Member

    11
    Mar 22, 2017
    BassMon2

    thanks for reply. (no offense taken at all.... :) )

    couple things:

    1. I definitely have experimented with different positions. When i really shift forward dig chin into board and paddle deep, i definitely caught/catch more, however, still required a later drop, and if it was too late, back end would lift and pitch.

    1a. I would do the above at an angle, off the peak/ or on shoulder (3+ foot) and got some waves, but again, i could feel the rear "float up"

    2. If i shift back, even with a solid 7-10 strokes to "get up to speed of the wave" , it more likely that not still "Sits me on top"

    3. Like i said, if i "work down the face" ( on 2-4+) i can make the wave (if not to pitchy) but power gone more often than not, not exactly a bottom turning machine...lol

    as for rocker, it has a good nose rocker...my first thought was "oh this would help with steeper drops" but what happened was the rear "floats" too much.

    board: 7'6 - 3 inch thick.

    i found an online photo, but dont have a handy one myself (board at beach house or i would take a pic)
     
  4. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    ^^^ What Bassmon said, plus, wave selection and timing are everything. They are skills that will take more time in the water and consistency. Keep at it and it will click.

    Also, try starting a hello thread to introdeuce yourself. The gang will smack you around a bit and then you're in like Flynn.
     
  5. jboosted92

    jboosted92 Member

    11
    Mar 22, 2017
    paddling technique / strength...

    1. Obviously without seeing me, know way to really tell, but here is what i do know

    a. if im not paddling in the water, im either ( paddling in a pool, paddling on flat day / row machine / paddle a board in lake nearby -- eww :) )

    my theory with paddling strentgh/endurance, was Stronger/Edurance paddling = the longer i could be in the water = more waves i could catch

    technique =

    1.when just paddling around = nice balanced approach, deep relaxed fingers drive, keep head steady, feet up
    2. when paddling for a wave = getting proper position on board, few strong paddles, chin down, kick if need be, and dig dig dig
     
  6. bubs

    bubs Well-Known Member

    Sep 12, 2010
    I stopped reading your post after you wrote "fitness ability 10/10"
     
  7. BassMon2

    BassMon2 Well-Known Member

    Jan 27, 2015
    Maybe your popping up to soon. Sit in a normal position. Nose isn't sunk but not sticking way out of the water either. Should plane on the water all nicey nice. Slight angle. Paddle hard. When you would normally pop up, don't. Take another paddle or two. Then pop up quick.

    Without seeing you in action its hard, but give it a shot. Its also possible your positioning in they water in terms to the wave is off.

    It sounds like you have a clue about what's going on and are dedicated enough to get this down. Just keep practising. Try my suggestion and let me know how it works for you. Feel free to PM me if you'd like.

    As for the board, don't get a new one. That thing should be plenty for you. I have a 6'4 that's super slimmed out. Its my second longest SB, yet has the least amount of volume. Point being length isn't everything. This is definitely NOT the case with your board. You should have plenty volume
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2017
  8. jboosted92

    jboosted92 Member

    11
    Mar 22, 2017
    HAHAHA...fair enough... didnt want to portray i was a Shlub.... trained athletically my whole life
     
  9. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    Lol
     
  10. Kanman

    Kanman Well-Known Member

    732
    May 5, 2014
    Good points made on here already. I loved riding my 7'6" fun board before I let it go. It basically caught everything. That length should be a relatively decent all-rounder.

    Another tip is to get someone to film you. Watch yourself and analyze where you might be making mistakes or what you can improve on. From your pop up, trim line (high), bottom turn, etc., etc. Even if you have to prop your phone up on the beach. Being able to visualize what you are doing will help. And watch surfers riding similar style boards, whether it be in the line up or youtube. Eventually it'll click.

    If I could change one thing about re-learning it probably would have been to log longer before going shorter. You pick up basic skills faster that way, in my opinion. Keep at it though. You'll get to where you want to be. Having a crappy session is nothing more than a motivator to do better.
     
  11. BassMon2

    BassMon2 Well-Known Member

    Jan 27, 2015
    ^^^^ That's a good point. LBing definitely had made me a better SBer.
     
  12. Zeroevol

    Zeroevol Well-Known Member

    Jun 22, 2009
    Almost sounds like you are popping up too soon if you are getting caught at the top so much. I actually watched a guy on Monday at IRI doing just that. He wasn't waiting for the wave to actually pick him up. Take off at an angle and grab that rail! Keep at it
     
  13. Lou

    Lou New Member

    2
    Sep 6, 2014
    I have to agree with BassMon2. Getting stuck in the lip, going to the bottom and losing speed-all classic experience issues. The other thing is if you are 170lbs you are 190lbs in a 5/4. At your experience level I think a bigger board would help. Conditioning does not sound like an issue. It sounds to me like you still need to get the feel for catching the wave. You sound like you know, in theory, what to do and you are definitely determined so I believe you will get this with persistence. But, this is not an exact science and you will pay some dues before you do get it but that being said, don't make it harder than it has to be at this point. Go with more volume, if can, until you get the feel of catching the wave. Without seeing you the only other advice I would give is if you are getting stuck in the lip, start paddling sooner, looking behind you at the wave so you can see when to give it that final burst, kick if you can. You need to get the feel of when to stand and when to back off. When you stand don't stand straight up. Pop to your feet and hold the rails for an extra second looking down the line to plan your route. Then stay low with your knees bent. Looking down the line from the start will keep you higher on the wave and you will maintain speed. The board will follow your eyes, try it. Bigger board or not don't give up. Good luck.
     
  14. yankee

    yankee Well-Known Member

    Sep 26, 2008
    Lou.....whoooo? Seems like a coupla intro treads are in order here, buoyz. Replete with pics of your beatches, and I'm not talkin' about your boarts. You also, mister booster seat.

    You can't come on here asking for the finest effing advisements in the free world without putting forth the admission ticket.

    BTW, this IS the place for medicale advise as welle.

    And for booster seat, check with Mitchell, he's approx your dims & might, maybe, just might if he's feeling gracious straighten thine buttockals out on your boart issues. Oh, and he has, like, 40 yrs 'sperience surfing & shaping.

    Other option: Surf Simply, Nosara, CR. Sign up now. The waiting list is at least a year.
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2017
  15. Lou

    Lou New Member

    2
    Sep 6, 2014
    I was not talking to you, yankee. Who the hell do you think you are you any way? Are you the keeper of this guys thread? He was asking for advise so I gave him some. Guys like you are the reason I have not posted since I joined 3 years ago. Enjoy your virtual kingdom. I am out.
     
  16. jboosted92

    jboosted92 Member

    11
    Mar 22, 2017
    heading there in June....
     
  17. yankee

    yankee Well-Known Member

    Sep 26, 2008
    Trust me, sweet lou, you won't be missed. Look at boosted, he has a sense of humour, he gets the SI Ways & Means, he will be ..... One of the Tribe.....

    You, lou, pooh, boo-hoo, will be relegated to cleaning the hubcaps of wayne's windowless white van of ducte tape & doome for the remaindere of thye dark & gloomy pissye dayze.
     
  18. yankee

    yankee Well-Known Member

    Sep 26, 2008
    Good call ^^ Say hello to Harry & Jessie: awesome peeps, fantastic surfing coaches. Report of course upon thyine returne. Safe travails.