So, I was the only d-bag out this morning. Timed the tide perfect. On the regular, it was about waist high. Last wave of my 2 hour session, nice lined up left hander, dead wind. Dropped in and got a couple turns in, look up and omg, it starts to barrel, I duck down into an almost fetal position pose, crouch in that sucker, duck and cover, go in, come out and then pump a few times and pop over the back into a pack of like 5-6 giant jelly fish. I think, I may have just won the award for the smallest barrel ever ridden by a human being, while standing on a surfboard.... Im about to call the Guiness book and see what the deal is, cause I seriously just set a record. It was an unexpected luxury to end the day. But for real, I did the unthinkable and i dont THINK the jellies even touched me. hashtag pattingmyselfontheback . Who needs the north shore when we have waist high dredgers all over south cackilack.
Yeah, it was light offshore. It was going from dead wind, to light offshore. Super small but fun anyway. There were actually some leftover scraps at Coligny yesterday. And man, there was a lot of "talent" on the beach man. Thank goodness for the von zippers.
