B*ac*'s Beach

Just hit Bl*ck'* this afternoon. Parked at TP State Park like 5 spots from the trail. Scored that with a dude pulling out as I arrived. The north side was all funky from the wind so I hit the south. Still hollow in some spots despite onshores. I was impressed with the size and shape and it's definitely something to respect. It was really shifty though with a longer paddle out and there looked to be a secondary south swell of some sort coming at the WNW from the side. Vast and powerful beach break reminds me of OBSF in its sheer magnitude and power.

Just came down here to the pier at Scr**ps and that looks like the dozen cats out there now are stoked. I'm looking for something cleaner and more manageable, and willing to sacrifice size for that. Hit up S**t Cr**k last night which was real interesting at mid tide, never seen it like that. A lot of work but I got this one left on the FW board I picked up that was my best ride to date in California. Smacked the lip hard.

Sic deets buoys. I may head to those parks right now at OB if I don't catch another surf sesh. Had been contemplating heading to San Onofre for something clean and smooth but nothing wrong with exploring dope places I've never been.

My biggest challenge will be finding where I can get waves the next two days with the island blockage. Wanted to spend some time in LA & OC counties but may not be in the cards.

 

Bro. You think I don't know by now which breaks out there are household names and which are sacred? I do it in jest - for breaks like T*e W*ll that everyone knows. Thanks for the PSA bud.

Just caught a left at S*ns*t Cl*ff* now. Pretty dope place. Access was "fun" and the rip was a conveyor belt out back. You guys who live out here have unreal natural resources. I'm glad I came south this time! Thanks to the buoys who gave great advice here and on PMs. Big help!

 

Bros, not all of these are something "cool" I've seen recently, but here are a few things I've seen in the last 24 hours:

- A fat dude in Laguna on one of those motorized skateboards we made fun of here a while back
- Older woman on all fours (rear view) at Bl*ck's
- Way too many unclothed dudes at Bl*ck's
- African-American dude in a dark three-piece suit walking in the sand on Bl*ck's carrying a backpack and wearing hi-tops - dude was all business
- Hot chick on a unicycle at OB
- Night waves smashing into the OB Pier that went above pilings onto pier (no shotts)
- A clothing store in OB called Wahines
- An actual s*nset at S*nset Cliffs

Good thing I've had the reference point of helpful Swellers because the friends I'm staying with here are great peeps but non-surfers.