Same for me except I can ride pretty smoothly. My main issue on a longboard is gettin all the way to the nose. I always get a step or a couple of inches from the nose but I never actually get to hang my toes over. Some day I'll get it hopefully
Its cause your not in the sweet spot on the wave. I usually do a cut back then let to board work its way alomost to the top of the wave on it own as I cross step to the noes. Alot of it depends on the wave too . If the wave dont have a long line to it I have notice you have to stepback once the wave started to break in front of you then work you way back up to the nose agian If you ever been to Wildwood you will see what I mean . Wildwood breaks like that almost like in 3 short sections
Well here they are the 2 in the middle. The Tan and blue one is the 9'6 NR2 & the Sky Blue one is the 9'10 Elevator. I am given the Elevator a shot tomrrow I will let you know how it performs