Whose seriously gonna be charging the possible DOH this week on the EC. many people will surf shoulder high and say it was way overhead but this week I know my break in NJ late Tuesday their calling for 6-10 at 12sec. With possible DOH sets sh1ts gonna be dangerous, be careful dudes be honest with yourself if you never surfed big juice before with relativity to around here. the last swell I can remember around here that was a bit bigger was the doomsday swell where sam hammer and a few pros were the only ones out sh1t was mazzzive, just be careful and go with a buddy don't need anyone drowning so close to the holidays boys
Not sure if you're trying to reduce human obstacles, or being 'honest', but I'll bite- I will probably not paddle out unless I find a spot that is smaller. I can't afford to get hurt or snap a board. I remember two days last December that were huge (one doomsday maybe?), one day I didn't make it outside, the other I did. And on the day I did, I didn't catch sh*t, I remember realizing it was beyond my ability and noticing I was alone, thinking "wtf did i get myself into."
Slashdog thats what I always say to myself in any terrible situation. But yeah me and my friend are gonna be charging, he has a ski so it wont be a hard paddle out
I got 2 hernias I'm getting fixed next month, I will be spectating. All I need is to get crushed on the bottom hard enough to blow my guts out of my bellybutton. Head high is pushing it. I was worried on tday. Even if I was all patched up, it's most likely going to be outside my range. I suck
Worst come to worse I'll be out on the jetty with a camera. Got nothing to prove to anyone. But I'll bring the board and suit along
Yeah I got no business getting a free chiropractic exam compliments of the Atlantic Ocean. My pussification goes beyond passing up big stuff. I'm only interested in surfing beach breaks if its remotely big at all. I have no interest in concussions or missing teeth either. I know my limits, and my health insurance deductibles.
DOH? Unless it's a super steep angle, high tide slow rollers I'll be fishing. Rather wait for the shoulder to head leftovers especially in winter.
Double over head is just a height measurement, it really doesn't at all explain if it will be rideable or closing out. That has more to do with swell angle, period, easing or building swell, wind, tides, sand bar structure and most of the time you just have to wait and see what mother nature has to offer. Double over head is nothing to be afraid of, but it can be dangerous especially in winter. Usually you will get shut down on the paddle out if you're not worthy. But at the same time you can get yourself out there to the break, after 10 minutes of full suited duck diving, and get hit by a monster set at the worst possible time. I will tell you that for years and years I pushed my luck in situations like that, and have gotten over the sets with my last breath and said to myself, "One more on the head and i was toast..." But it was like I had a guardian angel, i always got out there just barely as long as i Pushed it to the limits. Last winter I went out on a barely over head day of non stop pulsing @ 10 seconds NE bombs. I duck dove a half a dozen inside waves and tried to follow the rip out. Then I got to the outside bar and just kept getting shut down, every time I popped up from a dive I was taking two big breaths and going back under. Eventually I said f it, which tells me i'm old now. But then as soon as I turned around and took one on the back like a punk it looked like there was a keyhole, a break in the sets, and I decided i weathered the set and I paid my due and I was home free. SO I turned back to the open horizon and paddled with everything I had left in me. Within about 15 yards I knew I had made a mistake... I could see a wave started to jack up WAY outside of where I was, the water over the outside bar was flatting out into glass as the wave drew me into it. I was right in the impact zone. I paddled for my life, I pushed down on my board to duck dive and when I came out the back I couldn't even paddle, my body was done. It had litterally given up on me. And of course there was an even bigger one behind it. I didn't even try to get on top of my board. I took as many deep breaths as I could ( not enough) and waited for the inevitable. The wave broke right in front of me, I tried my best to slink under water but it was futile. I felt the wave effortlessly pick me up, and I felt myself begin to fall as i was pitched out in front of the wave. I did my best zen impression, and I started to black out under water. I never felt myself come up, I just saw light in my eyes and opened them and realized I was up and I breathed that sweet life giving air but I couldn't get enough fast enough. I had been dragged all the way to the inside underwater, thankfully, and was out of the line of fire. I paddled in and laid on the beach and I swear to you I felt like I escaped death. It was the most humbling experience I have had because I always had the idea in my mind that if it was too big, I couldn't get out. The scary reality is you can get out sometimes into the impact zone at exactly the wrong time and completely gassed. Especially in a shifty beach break with peaking swell. Anyway I don't let it stop me from charging on a solid day, but it made me throw away any ego I had about surfing and getting out and made me appreciate just being able to take a breath of fresh air.. But at the same time, I wouldn't discourage anyone from paddling out because that experience is something you have to have on your own to appreciate the message it can give you. And I"m not talking about getting shut down on your paddle out. I'm talking about pushing yourself way past getting shut down, to the point of your mind putting your body into serious trouble. Just remember you are mortal fellow chargers and mother ocean will not feel one way or the other if you get yourself into danger.
It doesn't get double overhead here, sorry to break it to you. Maybe once every 3 years if that. If it does then be careful and stuff.
Anything over shin high, oh hell no, & I stay in my 4/3 until the water temp hits 75 degrees. Other than that, I'll be in the bar.
It's not the size so much as the conditions. Tons of drift from 2-3 days of hard NE winds, 40 Mph offshore winds, and dredgy dark DOH+ Barrels. Add in water in high 40s and full 5 mil rubber head to toe. Those are tough conditions anyway you cut it. I'd take a nice warm DOH reef or point anyday of the week over that. Enjoy it folks.
swellinfo is calling occ DOH Tuesday night, sorry to break it to you but the doomsday swell was DOH easy in ocean county bud
