good story NEC, had a similar experience but was more or less battling with a jetty as well. that day I became a Christian when I flopped onto the sand
That. Went out freezin in a wetsuite. By the time I made it back in, had the suite half off, I was sweatin so hard. That was bodysurfin in OH. Went to the 3rd sandbar out, one of them times I was a dumbass... Ocean is bigger than me.
I agree that Arthur was pretty scary actually. I would say that was the closest to DOH that ive been in since doomsday. Im just saying, the forecasts will say 10-11 feet and then it turns out to be head high. Its hard to get right until a day prior. I don't doubt it will be big and good but lets see how low the pressure gets on this low pressure before we start calling DOH. But catch it a deep spot in high tide and it might be all time
Great post NEC. I came to the realization earlier this year during a winter session that I can no longer push the limits physically like I used to. Age takes its toll. Same seems to be holding true in other sports: running, throwing, weight lifting, exercising, etc.
Big, cold, and long period which will probably send a lot of closeouts. Maybe depending on how it looked I'd give it a shot in summer when it's warm, but I'll sit this one out and watch on the cams. Have a bunch of finals anyway and am leaving for Hawaii right after so hopefully I get to surf decent waves out there. Hopefully there are some fun leftovers that are more manageable and a lot less work for the rest of you guys though.
went to go check it out today the wind didnt make it friendl. if there were people outside i would of paddled out but it was empty so i left. i've only got 1 step up left (broke 2 last winter) so i cannot break this one... when i broke 1 last year i thought i was going to die, held under forever and then pounded until i got to shore. think about that now when it gets bigish but it's still manageable. hoping people will be out tuesday when the wind could switch because im going out regaurdless
got finals to bruh but then got a month off, hit the swell and work so i can get money for boards YAY
Gonna miss the whole thing, but oh well. Heading up to Richmond to see the Tedeschi Trucks Band so I'm not really that bummed. I just hope our road in not underwater so I can get off the island.
1/12/14 last year was pretty solid up here, not DOH, but well overhead, 6-8 and clean...paddle out sucked, so worth it once out but I'm personally not that comfortable in that size in those water temps...bigger days in winter for me mean going to nooks where it will be HH. This was that day at da point...
I will not be surfing Tuesday. Even if I had the day off, or a 2 hour window to surf, it would be a strictly a spectacle for me. I don't bother with that type of azz whooping. Not worth it. I tip my hat to those hearty and crazy individuals who will be charging it, and actually surfing it. If you can tackle those kind of waves with confidence, you can surf just about anywhere in the world, regardless of the conditions. This is truth. Surfing a 10 foot, wind-blown, cold gnarly-azz wave with a 5 mil on covered head-to-toe ain't no walk in the park. There ain't no channel to paddle out at, and there's no foo-foo drink on a warm picturesque beach waiting for ya afterwards. Wednesday afternoon, on the other hand, it will be much more user-friendly for mere mortals like myself. If I can make time, I'll surf it, fo sheez.
Dis tread and the cathartic post earlier is creeping me out to thinking about several close calls I had last winter. Took a few months to process those and go back to charging bigger stuff. By the time the cleaner 6-9' late spring swells hit I was ok and did well in them. But it's good to get the reminder of what can happen without full and complete caution and prudence in the winter. It's good that we talk about this stuff on here. First, that type of stuff needs to be shared to get it of your chest and second, it keeps us smart and safe the next time. Hope everyone has a blast this week and finds themselves only in situations they can handle and get out of.
basically yead, if you can do 2xoh in short period no channel cold conditions, you are set to go anywhere I am concerned I have softened. concerned about lack of channel. very concerned for my azzwhooping cold+shortperiod+nochannel= new set of conditions
Last time I tried to paddle out in bigger stuff (about 6-7, that's really big for me... Very new to this) got caught between the breaking sets and rip going out. Can't dive duck a funboard so... Got flipped into water and for a few waves it would pick me up, toss me towards the beach and rip would scoop me up under and push right back out into the line of fire. Not cool man. I was happy when I finally made it to the beach.. Really happy. Rookie mistake I'm sure, and I've since found a few tricks to paddle out on the funboard, but that was an eye opener for sure
I also think there's a difference between being able to handle conditions (such as ones just stated) and then also being satisfied and ok with what you go through even if you can handle it. For instance, let's say you can take a bunch on the head in the cold and heavy and all bunched up in rubber. Once you're out back, are you stoked and ready to go or are you quite a bit frustrated and half exhausted and your day isn't going overall how you'd have preferred? I guess one answer is do what you gotta do to get what you want and charge the bigger waves and once you're in those it'll all seem worth it. Then again, it's complete dog$hit having to deal with these paddle outs, even if you can make it. Then you ride one too far in and you're in the spin all over again. No ones making us do this, it's all our own free will. What are you gonna do, get mad at the ocean for serving up what you already knew it had? Hard not to get pissed though lol
In 30+ years of surfing FB, SC I've never seen DOH. Today was forcasted to be shoulder high and it is knee high at best. Had the day scheduled to catch some surf. Bummer.Maybe wed. or thursday we'll get some waves. That is when I have to work 12 hr days.
MIS I tellz you a little secret certain spots on the long burried island will have channels...or you might be able to use the long wooden structure as cat walk for advantage....
Every wave has a break that works. My personal opinion most breaks will not be that great for this swell to much east in the wind and higher wind speeds. With that being sad if your looking for an epic barrel this is what you want. With the size and the wind you'll be doing a lot of late take offs which means a good beating if you dont make it in on time. But if you know where to go you can find a place and a time to surf it pretty comfortably. I personally am not going to kill my self unless it looks perfect, clean up should be amazing but we all wont know unless we go.
