That looks perfect to me and nice size. As for DOH, I agree with others. DOH in warm water is definitely different than in the winter. I used to surf the large days but then you get older, have kids, need more foam and lose some skill. You get to the point where you don't have to prove anything anymore. Tuesday night doesn't look fun to me at all. I'll wait until Wednesday where there is less drift and an easier paddleout. We can all relate to a hard paddle out where you don't have any air left and another set is going to detonate on your head. It's definitely a rush when you're younger but the risk isn't worth it any longer.
Definitely trying to get in the water, but not if i can't find someone to paddle out with. Winds in the Delmarva area are supposed to go NW around noon tomorrow, which will set up a pretty favorable offshore wind. But definitely with the wave size and temps will not be even partially inclined to paddle out alone. Enjoy breathing too much. May be sad to watch a big day go by, but live to see another swell. For me just making it out will be enough, it's a lot of fun to be out in the ocean with that type of energy running through it.
Dude so I go to paddle out yesterday, and right as I come over the dunes, this girl scout stops me and says, "I need about tree fitty".
It pretty much is the same **** after head high and up around here. I can see how intimidating it is on those overcast dreary winter days, and it always seems like it's in late november / december. I personally think of the 5-4 as my body armor, it swaddles me to the lineup where i proceed to cherry pick 5 shoulders and barrel dodge. I do really look forward to these days though, I enjoy the mental game and the ass beatings. Not to mention the 1/100 chance I'll actually be in position and get accidently barreled out of my ****ing nuts. It's almost the same mindset as a teenage girl who cuts to Thursday lyrics. If you're fit and confident enough give it a go, i think it's almost easier to surf it when there's so much swell coming you cant help but get that push in as opposed to those borderline days where it's just dredging on the edge of the bar...if you get what I mean.
The trick around here is a certain spot that loves north swells. You always have people to surf with, because Mr. Swellinfo and the BB crew charge hard. These guys have no respect for the ocean though, they paddle out and proceed to perform coitus on the mother ocean for the entire session. I atleast take a break and sit up on my board between sets
your discourse would indicate a point that separates hobbyists from the dedicated, regardless of ability Jawn, who dont know that place? uncrowded jems are not known; shifty and difficult nature/fortune favors the bold* *Terrence McKenna
Errrbody on here know of that place....Only a few heads on here that surf the island regularly Ah I guess I should have known you already know the "MATH" right.....
If you are about age 27 or below you should be pushing the envelope and taking risks. Don't be stupid but don't let the fear stop you either. Prove to yourself that you can hang or, conversely, get taught a lesson or two and learn from the experience. If there is ever a time to let your ego drive you into taking on unnecessary risk, it's now. Those of you without ongoing injuries and kids and unaccomodating schedules who stay on the beach solely out of fear I don't know if surfing is the right sport for you.
Exactly. When your younger, you should push yourself and get the experiences in big waves. It really is an amazing feeling because as you get older, injuries, kids, conditioning and life makes it difficult to be ready for these days. Enjoy it now. Now, if we are talking DOH in the tropics at a reef or point, that is a different ballgame. That's what vacations are for when you're older. You can travel with the family to a warm place and snag some great waves.
I was just thinking about age dave.....absolutely right.....I have definitely been denied in jersey and gone hom sulking at least once..........but also .....if you want to go on a surf trip and pay thousands to surf doh tubes, its demonstrating character if you dont try it at home first....... just pay for it with a little bit of gasoline and whole lot in lickings. gotta pay one way or another, no matter your age.....
Everybody's been rejected/ejected from the salty drink in thier life...I've found the experience very humbeling...if you sat you haven't den you don't speak the troof....
ill throw my 2 cents down and say I prefer 5 mils, snow, cold, dreary, DOH jersey over warm DOH on some vacation. idk theres just something about charging in really crappy conditions outside when its cold and raining that I love
replace DOH with head high-a foot or two overhead with that statement. there's something more rewarding about a nice frosty session with some Jersey juice.
