Bro. With treads like the 3 word story how could we ever get bored? There are busy days where I don't get on here at all until 11pm then others that I pop in for a much needed breather and laugh in between arduous calls and emails. You're clearly not bored bro. You're logging some serious time here yourself today, Giuseppe. Brahhh, sometimes I'll post from the gym on the schitter. Bro, do you even lift?
You pre-pubescent little girl, I can guarantee if you saw my 50-year old a$$ walking towards you down the street, you'd cross the street to avoid me. Don't make me go all James Earl Ray on you. Pinche bedwetter.
I don't know about you guys, but I just got back in from an awesome session. My favorite conditions are seas bigger than 8 feet with driving wind coupled with rain/hail and ocean temps south of 50 degrees. You are guaranteed to have it to yourself. Once you got out it was actually pretty nice. Steep faces to drop and if you get lucky there were some shoulders to be had that kind of petered out in to small sections that transitioned back into some lumpy walls. I must have boosted about 15-20 really big airs. Since I forgot my wetsuit I just went trunks. It wasn't bad at all. On my way back in I caught a thresher shark with my hands that I'm going to cook up for lunch.
I personally appreciate the added buoyancy and grip a wetsuit provides. Winter swells are more intimidating than risky. Frankly, if you cannot paddle out in an EC winter, you have no place attempting a sun soaked reef or point break. I am heading to Tahiti next year and I train 5 days a week.Cardio is muy importante!
Oh yeah? If some old crusty guy is on vacation and decides to go surf a head high reefbreak, he shouldn't because he hasn't donned a 5 mil recently? Interesting. I guess you've never seen the geriatric cases that surf in the tropics. We'll all be there one day, God willing.
I would argue the other way. Paddling a channel or to the top of a point is cakewalk compared to getting pounded relentlessly at a beachbreak around here. On to the topic, boy it really looks like **** this morning, last night seems to have been the call around here. Maybe the lower tide will help it later.
the average reef/rock reef point in a tropical area is cake compared overhead surf here in cold weather. I'll go a step further and say that those waves are much easier to drop into as well. I surfed a few reefs this summer in nica and it was child's play compared to a solid day here. there are different hazards but you need an above average level of conditioning to surf here year round. Im not talking about sitting in the lineups waiting for waves but more getting a good wave count in your session and taking off deep.
just biology - muscles, when used a lot, get built up, then broken down. Once you hit the late 20s, maybe later for some people, the breakdown process starts to get faster and the buildup becomes slower because you start to lose muscle mass, I think like around 1% each year. As for risk-taking, ask any insurance expert, they'll tell you that statistically, people, especially males, are prone to risk-taking up until around age 25, something to do with some area of the brain not developing fully until then, but I think its just the simple fact that the longer you're around, the more close calls you yourself go through, and the more that you see around you where people take risks and it ends badly you just naturally become more cautious. When I first started surfing in NJ in 1985 I thought the idea of someone dying while surfing in local waters was ridiculous. Now I know better
At work looking at cams like a teenager. Looks fun today. Darkness at 4:30 really sucks. - Working Stiff
Just got pitted in OH+. Was 7-10' on sets. Wind died out at a protected spot then was intermittently gusty. Holy drift. Solid hour long sesh with two other very good surfers I know locally. You couldn't wipe the grin off our mugs the whole time. Very manageable at this protected spot that only goes off above HH. Still, everything a about today reinforced that I really prefer not to paddle out solo in wintry gnar. Been there, done that, not gambling further. Effin stoked. Got fast rides to both sides. Took off behind the peak to get billeted, did so, then bailed into the closeout in the shorebreak. Definitely stepped up the game today to new levels. Still prefer snacking lipz over barrells, then again shacks are still all new to me. My green room time has been more of a drive-thru than a camp out. Hope you buoys score. Stay safe!
Yes bro. Pinned right to the sand bottom at end of the sesh when I stayed in too long to see how a set was shaping up then went OTF on my stomach. Pinned on that barrell too pretty sure after sticking the massive air drop.
