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Discussion in 'Surfboards and Surfboard Design' started by MFCondor, Feb 28, 2014.
Umm, didn't my post just say that?
I use my third leg as a rudder when i boogie
That actually works
Isn't that why they call it d!ck dragging?
Like I posted earlier, I am a "front footed surfer". With that said, i agree 100% with what everyone says here ON A THEORETICAL LEVEL in that there is no such thing as that, or if you surf that way you are "doing it wrong".
The reality is that we aren't all the Hobgoods (or as good as we think we are), and we all probably favor one foot over the other in our surfing. Most of us don't pump perfectly with that front foot, and then shift all of our weight onto the back foot effortlessly and seamlessly into a huge back foot driven cut back.
That's why I posted the detailed info on the board I currently ride, and what I look for in boards. Its always nice to give yourself a little edge by tailoring your equipment to your style of surfing, or to overcome your weaknesses.
I used to be heavy front foot. Then I moved to the desert and could only skate 90% of the time. There was a big ol' bowl in the town I lived in and I skated that every day. I came back here and my stance is all screwy, I'm relearning everything that was comfortable, and finding things that work better.
I would say skating helped solve that issue, then again its not really an issue considering you can shape boards to compensate. All my boards that Ive loved have had more volume up front, its just a matter of trying shapes and figuring it out.
The displacement hull could be interesting as well, although I dont know how I would like the speed of the board. Good luck man, let us know what you find out
I have seen pictures of myself surfing and my center of gravity is definitely in front of my front foot. When I originally said front foot, I meant where my weight is when I ride. I think I need to work on my weight shifting. I have never really changed my style of surfing but since switching boards I have noticed a decline in my surfing.
This could be me, age, brain, or not surfing as much because it is winter. My old board and I "clicked." This is why I thought that there may be a "front footed" surfboard.
Sometimes when I pump I actually fall forwards. I must have way to much weight over my front foot. I think because a lot of mid atlantic waves are pump and hit the closeout section i've never attempted too calmly stay on my back foot and surf top to bottom.
Thanks for the advice.
engaging the fins in the back actually gives you more speed. A thruster set up, in particular, actually allows you to "s turn" your way through flat sections by squeezing the water under your board through the nozel the 3 fins create. works much better than the front footed "huntington hop", imo.
Each to his own, but I would try to work on expanding your use of your board. If your primarily on the front, take some time in the next several sessions to just feel out the other parts of your board.
btw, when people talk about putting your board on "rail", that actually means the back 3rd of the board's rail. the rail fin being the central pivot point for your turn...unless you're doing some huge rail burying gash, that is.
People say they surf "back footed" when they mean they're constantly trying to drive off their fins and the rail behind their front foot... basically from the widepoint back. You can do this to turn, and even to pump. That's why bottom contours in shortboards are primarily focused in this area... from the widepoint back. But some people don't always drive off their fins and aft rail... they have a more balanced weight distribution, use more rail, and generally don't surf with a snappy style... more of a carvy style... which lets you put a lot of power into your turns, so it's not necessarily a bad thing.
Getting back to bottom contours and widepoint... the more "back footed" your style, the more you want your wide point and bottom contours shifted back. Wide point behind center, deepest part of your single concave back, and your doubles might start further back, too. More evenly distributed weight?... wide point at center (or even slightly forward for boards designed for very small, or very large waves) with the deepest point of your single shifted forward and you doubles starting to fade in shifted forward as well.
For reference, here is a general guideline: Single concave starts at about 6-8 inches from the nose, gradually getting deeper with the deepest point halfway between the widepoint and the leading edge of the front fins, then quickly fading to flat or vee behind the trailing fin. Doubles begin at the single's deepest point, and are deepest at the leading edge of the front fins, then fade out behind the trailing edge of the trailing fin. This is a general guideline, and you can fine tune based on rider style, waves, etc. from there.