Closing out another year and looking back on some fun days. Did two Central American trips and one short Socal hop that was biz/pleasure. My favorite day was on the East coast of Florida. There was almost a week of good swell from Joaquin in Oct and for me one day of pure magic. HH plus and long glassy lines.Was seeing barrels in my sleep when the day was over. Next best was a spot in Costa Rica called Quepos. Not as big, but one of the longest lefts I have ever been on. It does not turn on unless the swell is just right and can get really crowded if good. I got so lucky. A perfect day with only three ticos that were super cool. We just took turns on what looked like a machine produced wave for hours. Post up your fave day of 2015...wish you all the best in 16!
It's hard to remember exactly- but the swell we had locally a few weeks ago was fairly good. It wasn't huge- but it was a nice sse swell and lined up perfect for each wave. About chest to head hi. Liners for sure. I remember thinking when I was out that it could have been the best day since last thanksgiving 2014... But I usually judge the waves by the shape and the way they peel- not nessisarly size. I seem to remember a good few days in the summer too- but only about chest hi. I can't remember back to the spring or winter too clearly.. Lol
34 years old. Bailed on work and got a clean barrel in early October in OC, NJ. Cleanest one of my life on a day when 3-4 other guys that committed to go out didn't show. Felt like I earned it...
Best day in the surf was when a nice swell was in, glassy, warm waters, and all of you were at work, in school, in prison, and I was in the water all by myself, with all of you morons paining to get out. Happened a lot this Fall!! Yayyyy!!! BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAA!!!!!!
Dear Barry, Next time you score some empty waves- could you please invite your friends from swellinfo.com Thanks Barry, your our favorite Your pal Mr Belmar
There is no best day at my spot. It's always just OK. How was it? Ah, it was OK. Reveling in the mediocrity.
And none of you are out, but the cars have boards on them? Were you and you friends "highway surfing"?? "I surf; I am cool"???
Sick pics everyone, cape looks like it goes off... gunna have to get up there someday. And remember kids, don't feed the trolls.
Hey aren't some of these Cape pics from a swell a few years ago? I know a few are. Isn't this the best of 2015?
Classic jersey shred machine reference best day around here was just after thanksgiving epic. Well overhead and perfect form I have no pics to prove it though
My best day was up in the Pacific North West the week i finished fire season this year. The swell was some ridiculous fall storm i think it was like 14 feet at 18 seconds or something like that. Strong heavy south winds making all but one spot more or less unrideable. For three days straight the swell built from slightly overhead glassy nuggets to full fledged Doom bombs with 25 foot faces on the sets. I surfed alone or nearly alone all three days at a world renowned spot up there. The last wave i caught was definitely one of the biggest in my life, a guy on the inside was watching me and said it was well over 20 feet and heaving. The scary part is I was totally zen the whole time, just turn and drop into oblivion and hope for the best. It was surprising, the conditions were SO good i found my self in a perverted form of boredom: "Oh another XXL doom drop in to the biggest barrel of my life, and a clean ride out onto the shoulder, I guess that's cool". By the time i got to the beach I was shaking all over (not from the cold) but from the magnitude of what I just did and the indifference I had toward the whole situation. Definitely one of the best sessions of my life, let alone the year and I still have never achieved that "zen master" like state again of getting back to back glory waves without batting an eye. it was beyond being "in the zone" it was a total oneness with nature, and a mood of total indifference whether the ocean decided to end my life at that point.
crindlefish were you one of the guys in that random All Connecticut surfer session I rolled up to in Greenhill that one day in RI