scored this past weekend. seen this big discussion on whippin ass in the line up what about the polar opposite? what about the guy that you've never met, don't know his name, or where in town he might live, but y'all surf the same few peaks in the area and happen to catch each other out when no one else is??? You can't tell anyone a thing about him, but they're there for some of the best times of your life. . . there's something to be said about the true inner good of man, when this situation arises. had an all time session on Saturday, did a drift of about ten blocks, caught too many waves to count, all of which, albeit junky, were overhead on the peak, and had a strong wall to smash in to. haven't taken my 5'9 out all summer and it felt so good to throw buckets and put it on rail. My homie that I had paddled out with, had enough and went in. As I'm looking at more sets filling in and reeling, I'm wondering if I want to go back out alone or not. Then a guy that I've surfed with probably a hundred times in the past 6 years showed up outa nowhere on his walk back up the beach. told me he was going to the end of the boardwalk for another drift and I thought - F it I'm in! we jumped back in after a long walk and drifted back another 10 blocks... caught so many sick rides. The kind where the wave wasn't perfect, far from it, but I was able to capitalize on every section, flowing, throwing, feeling like I needed a cameraman. Can I get a witness?!?! sure enough that homie was there and saw a ton of my rides, was hooting me into the rights, and I was hooting him into the lefts. He's a goofy footer, and I swear your best friends in life will be of the opposite stance, cause splitting a peak and seeing how far each of you went in either direction - is priceless. There's something to be said for the water angle. the spot I frequent is best on a high tide, as it tends to be a middle to inside break, so I'm constantly catching rides right up to the sand, and getting hoots and whistles from the tourons. Gratifying indeed, but nothing beats that hoot you get from the homie you're surfing with, when you're sticking a big drop and you hear them give you a holler from the shoulder, cause really, no one is gona know how gnarly that peak is unless they're out there in the water. I saw three or four lefts that broke way outside before doubling up into the pitter inside section. saw the homie just turn and burn on these, popped up in the middle of the breaking white water and just appear at the bottom, poised for the turn, hands by his side. he flowed it into a gentle top turn, to set up a run for the inside booter. I let out a big 'ol YEWWWWWW!!! He took one of those big lefts all the way in, I caught on more big set wave, scored a little head dip, carved a round house at what felt like mach 3, and hooked a finner on the inside before I bellied into shore. He was walking up and saw it, gave me props on it, said he had to go into work... we fist bumped and off we went our separate ways until the next rando super session. Both of us pumped on our success in the water, and both of us grateful for each other's praise, cause, really, no one knows your surfing like a surfer that you've surfed with. sorry guys I know this is beyond the typical size of reading material for ya.. but I'm just so stoked on the fun I had this weekend! and with all the negativity in the world, I thought I'd point out that there is still some true innocent righteousness going on. When that stranger homie and I are hooting each other into bombs, nothing more is required for that friendship than the sharing of stoke. And that should be said for far more things than surfing.
Depends if we just happen to drift in close proximity or, like almost always, some feeb walks down to where I'm at, paddles out and sits between me and the beach. That happened at Tulin in CR. Nobody for miles. n I turn to go and there's a doofus ****ting right in front of me. I was torn between shooting my board in his face and paddling away. I paddled away while my buddy started talking to him. My pal asked me to guess where he was from. I jokingly said VB. YUP!
Radical. Some of the best human interactions I had are when I stumble upon another human on a lonely stretch of water or trail. I like getting stocked for people, and must say I feel all special when they do for me.
Good stuff beerndwata! I can feel your stoke just reading this, and that's what it's all about! I tend to surf alone most of the time, meaning I go alone and typically at 1st light / sunrise before most others are in the water. I do on occasion make a friend for a session and we'll hoot each other into waves and then go our separate ways, never to see them again, and sometimes I will see the same people and end up on first name basis, but only see them at certain spots at certain times. Always nice seeing these people and makes the vibe more chill and friendly, which sure beats the alternative.
speaking of strangers,i seen in Dubai a muslim let his muslim kid drown,because he didn't want to let the "infidel" lifeguard rescue them.he even fought the lifeguard from doing their job and said id rather my kid die than be touched by an infidel.....sorry to hijack but it was a "stranger"....and muslims tend to hijack shyt
What?!? That's crazy! You saw that? I thought Muslims /Islam say that they are all about peace , love and stuff...
I end up surfing with this guy at the reefs every morning at first light. He's a bit older and surf kayaks (bad knees) but has as much fun as anyone else - I've seen him inside legit barrels! We talk all the time when we're out there b.c it's usually just us. I've split more peaks with this guy then anyone I actually know.
Surfers meet surfers in the water. odd. I meet all my surfer friends at work, the bar, and the mechanic. Sometimes we are buying the same porn at adam and eve. Seriously though, This is a good thread. Some of my most memorable sessions happen with total strangers, hooting hollering and having a good ol time. I have met many people I could call friends over the past few years because of good surf. This thread is better then all of the other I'm tough threads.
Excellent, positive OP, "Beer in d' H20". Really enjoyed it. Could feel the stoke. It was not too long for a good read. Particularly liked and found very relevant the last sentence.
