Best ride of your life?

Cold January morning Sebastian Inlet-Monster Hole, late 70's, First one to take the long paddle, 15ft.+ w/ offshore breeze, took off on the last wave of the first set, big bottom turn, came back to the wave and lip went over me, got at least a 5 sec. (time stood still, could have been longer) stand up barrel. One of the all time best barrels and day for that matter. But there have been many.

 

Haaahahaha.... really? This happened today?

[COLOR=\"#A9A9A9\"]I heard some people shouting before sundown but I don't recall any SUP'ers where I was at. Then again the drift kept me apart from the crowd...

Most of the SUP's in this area tend to be chubby, hyper-clueless, camera toting, 1-day specials. But there are one or two special cases that know no bounds. I hope it was one of them because they need a f*ckin beating.
Look at the bright side man,at least the waves were much better than expected. Early Christmas![/COLOR]

Nevermind.

 

Hell yeah man!

 

Waves were good on LI today?

 

Everyday I surf Belmar, NJ is the best rides of my life. It just gets better everyday

 

Not the biggest or best day ever, but extremely fun. Stopped in Rehoboth on the way back from OC to grab a pizza. The weather was crappy and rainy. All of a sudden, I see this peak in the waves and these little tubes were forming and just rolling. I grabbed my board and went out. For the next 30 minutes, every wave I took off on I got mini shacked. They were little ones, but big enough to cover me up when I ducked down.

 

there's this one that my mind keeps going back to. I can see it clearly through a lens clouded by decades..maybe it's because it was my 21st birthday .. maybe it was the late afternoon light after a 3 day rain. maybe it was the lousy weed we smoked by the brick through a bamboo bong we stashed in the crotch of an ancient caro caro tree- coming back after a year to find it still there only with a scorpion living inside.
I remember leaving my friends at "el Burro" to walk all the way to the rivermouth after seeing the last of the boats leave for the day. I can remember the feeling, my body strong from camping 3 weeks, eating rice and canned tuna, walking a mile down and back every day and paddling a thousand miles. Feeling strong, walking out at low tide with the sun almost down watching the birds circling around the top of that enormous rock. Feeling connected as swell energy and body and mind began to align as rolling, darkening energy on water becomes steep and now I'm down on my board and paddling because THIS IS THE ONE and it's only me out here and it's all been leading up to this and it's gonna be f*cking awesome and -sweet jesus don't let me be too deep…and paddling paddling paddling and finally lifted by the force of the almighty universe and all is one and here comes the drop and the water is so clear I can see THAT A F*CKING CROCODILE IS RIGHT THERE ON THE INSIDE!!---floating like a big, toothy log …but maybe there is a god looking out for the young and righteous because I make the drop, pull in and screaming through a bending, bowling liquid cavern and it was all pink and turquoise reflecting outside and that primeval beast from hell would be eating anchovies again on that rainy late august jungle night somewhere in my memories.