Whats the best surf advice you ever received or given? I thought about this for a while and I think someone told me when you take off go right or left and not straight down... of course tying a proper leash knot and not getting your $hit thrown in the water is pretty good also.
1. Stay away from Maine barns. 2. Stay away from windowless white vans. 3. Stay away from Internet surfing forums. 4. Stay away from surfers kitted out in orange jumpsuits & white crash helmets. 5. Surf more.
They're all insane but Shipstern's always seems especially crazy. Weird wave bulges, rocks everywhere, a long boat ride to any kind of medical treatment, etc...
my friend also once told me " the lip of your average 6 foot hollow wave has 60 pounds of pressure per square inch." i never did the math to verify, but that would mean getting closed out on by a solid wave in New England (like the one that totaled me knee) would be equivalent to getting knocked out by a prizefighter or getting hit in a mild auto-pedestrian accident if the prime impact zone hit you square.
My buddy, the most rad person I know,always sez it's only water. He's a wreck from dirt biking. I just told a grom yestersday, never leave the fun zone to look for a more fun zone when we were checking spots. We paddled right out and scored great waves. Once read somewhere, and it has done me very well on the big days: for every foot high the surf is, spend at least that many minutes on the beach watching it, before paddling out. It really let's you understand the dynamics you are about to be a part of, and have a couple of game plans, plus an exit strategy.
when going for a wave look over your shoulder. my 1st day surfing, after dropping in on the same guy twice.
Why would anyone do that?! Next you will tell me theres other basic things that might make the day better for everyone. My father gave me advice once before he left for smokes and never came back. He said i told you not to be stupid you moron