Best surf advice

if its a questionable day for farts on land , then one should never try a sneak one out in the wetsuite .

 

Getting knocked out in the ring doesn't hurt. It may look gruesome on the vid, but it really doesn't hurt - - until later. You'll likely have headaches & breathing & memory issues, in the days that follow, but those go away in time.

Getting run over by a car def hurts. Then it doesn't hurt. But the effects last a very long time & usually don't ever truly go away.

The ocean has way, way, way more immense power than either of those things.

Been there. Done alla that.

 

"Never leave waves to find waves."

 

Don't take the ocean lightly, and don't turn your back on it.

Bohdi's line from Point Break (1991): "Fear causes hesitation, and hesitation will cause your worst fears to come true."

Be grateful that you surf.

 

"Do a good job, all the time"

 

Burn one before and after, then burn another one...

 

Also, be prepared, as well.

 

All the time.

 

For technique:
Look where you are going, because you're gonna go wherever you look. So look where you want to go

For stoke:
Take chances, dont be a pu$$y

For getting waves:
Don't leave surf to find better surf.

I unintentionally failed to heed my own advise this weekend, and drove for almost an hour looking at 5-6 different spots that were all working. I shoulda stayed at the spot I knew was working well, but my instinct told me to go to the next circus down the street. As my window of time diminished, I ended up skunking myself at a much more crowded break, when I could have been surfing solo. SO, ole' Cleavland says, don't leave decent waves to find more decent waves

 

Make sure to look back at the wave a couple of times while paddling. after your last look back, look down the line. NOT down!

 

dont leave waves to find waves 1# rule to surf by,

 

Put rubbers on your ears and fill your shorts up with sand.

 

Never get caught on your knees... This works on sooooooooooo many levels....

 

Smile and relax while your out there in the lineup, waiting for the next set. The surfers having the most fun, are the ones having the most fun. Be one of them, not a buzzkill.

 

-This is the best advice for those of us who know the deal but can't keep from wondering what that peak looks like, just down the road.

For beginners:
1. Don't panic. Don't be surprised when you start panicking. Remember you're actually really close to the beach, and no you're not being drug out to sea (unless of course, you are being drug out to sea in which case you probably should panic).
2. Prepare to have the ocean make you it's bi$%h...no really, you have no idea (then look at em super serious, start laughing hysterically and back slowly away -keeping eye contact the whole time).
3. If you stick with it, you will almost surely become addicted. Are you ready to have your life upended by an activity you will likely suck at forever? How much of your comfortable existence are you willing to sacrifice to surf? Now triple those predicted impacts and that's a more accurate reflection of your life's reality in 5 years if you keep this up.

 

Paddle wide damn it! Not straight back out through the pack you moron! And stop yelling as you almost get run over on the way back out. And don't yell Fu(k when you fall. We all fall (except for NJshred).

 

Dude, my salt truck has been ready for months and it does a great job, all the time, and my snow scoop, as well.

 

This. You should just go ahead and watch north shore. Big Wednesday while you're at it.

 

Nipple Eyes. Surf as if your eyes were on your chest. Go ahead and draw a pair of T!TS on the nose of your board to remember. Pce