what a rush! After totally running myself in the ground yesterday to prepare for today’s surfing, taking 3 hours to do a 20 minute job, I was pleased to wake up this morning restored! The med let me walk better and spasm free. So off we went, with husband at the wheel. The R2D2 arrived right on time and my crew was there to help carry my gear andwheel me to the beach. What a beautiful sight: uncrowded gentle knee to thing highs, semi clean, just mild offshore winds. The paddle out was a snap and it was great to get back in the ocean and see the spray come over the board on the paddle out (Love that!)— and the big waves from the locals in the line up, welcoming me home was a real nice touch. Just being out there amongst friends and the ocean was indescribably as you might know. To me, the social aspect of surfing is what makes it so delicious. I don’t mean paddling over to a guy who clearly wants to be alone.( I mean trading jokes, How you doing buddy’s, complimenting rides, and sharing the awesomeness of being one with the ocean: that’s the socializing I love. And for those I know better, hearing the latest on the grandchild, or the job search, or working to give up smoking etc. — to me that’s part of surfing too, just as it’s part of life. ) So, I paddled for 2.5 hours— this med works wonders— with some spasticity, but no spasms. Hallelujah! And I chased about 10 waves: my timing is really off having been out of the ocean since October, but also being overexcited. I popped up on 5 waves: the first four the pop up was awful with both feet parallel and facing forward, so I lost the board. The last one, though, I nailed— feet were in place, and I got a nice little drop on a thigh high clean left: I couldn’t move my feet nimble enough to redistribute the weight, or shift my weight around gracefully, so the ride ended quickly....but I got that drop feeling that we all love! But mainly I got pieces of myself back. I got a fun fun fun morning with friends in the ocean!Now, i am thinking of maybe being able to do it again as the body and med allows— before today, I had thought my surfing days were closing. I might look like a kook out there : But I challenge anyone to strap 20lb weights on each ankle, five pounds on each arm, get good and dizzy by spinning around for 5 minutes, and have a gorilla squeezing your shin and ankle muscles, and then try to surf! I am so lucky to be a surfer. And I know it.