Big Pipe swell and many rippers getting after it.... Im curious though... wouldnt the most expensive and best board in the world be used during surf like this??? I mean, no one, not one person has a board that looks anything like those million dollar wonder sticks... I guess its just another case of herd mentality and a universal lack of understanding of what kind of board works best... http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=FI8xQBY1WZ8
It was (painfuly) brought to our attention that there is what "one" thinks an ultimate, best in the world surfboard available to us.... no matter that everyone else thinks the board is koo koo, it is being shopped as the most most advanced surfboard available.... have you not heard of this board? Its made by some guy named Roy.... charges up to 1 million dollars... I've never surfed it... but I don't think anyone really has...
Roy has surfed with his board, and looks like crap while doing so. Honestly, if he actually has been surfing for 30 years (or whatever he claims), he should be ashamed of his style.
You all are a bunch of fools. Roy's boards don't go to measly-ass Pipe because Pipe is the result of a failed post-modern, clay-footed(whatever the frak that's supposed to mean), inefficient and far inferior construct some lame-brained fools choose to call "high performance surfing." He's so advanced his fins warp to the optimum efficiency ratios on their own through the transcendental and possibly even transdermal effects of using plastic knives to hone his joints before he dumps a 55 gallon drum of resin in them to fill the gaps.... you know, it laminates with superior strength that way.
I heard his boards work by folding time and space and creating a transdimentional portal through the wave. His designs have found a way to divide by zero.
thats exactlly what i was thinkin!!lol..i never heard of a million dollar stick,but who would ride a board like that at pipe!!??its like buying a bently just to take to destruction derby.pipe breaks boards.personally if i was there(i wouldnt of even paddled out)but id use a series of old used beatup boards like i do around here.im no pro,got no sponsors,i spend 700 on a board,and break it the first hour,id be pretty pisssed
this has got me thinking of how to make the cheapest surf board possible (as close to free as you can get) and then of course a surf off between the cheapest and the most expensive boards in the world. i was thinking chambered recycled cardboard, but i need some sort of free fabric to cover it, maybe old rice bags or something like that.
It's not the materials that make it expensive, he uses wood, you know, from trees. The rest of the surfboard industry rely on space age-ed high density foams and chemistry experiment glassing. Both of which are awful for the environment, and our health. I'm all about wooden boards, just not for $500000. I couldn't care less about the flex and displacement tails etc,