AS I lived there for 1st 18 years of my life I am completely fluent in spanish. The article said the fellow was out at Tres Palmas at the time of his death. Due to large waves, authorities had to call in CoastGuard. They have a police detective looking into any contributory factors (drugs?). The body was taken to Mayaguez ER where man was pronounced dead in ER. That wraps it up as far as I remember.
It is like Sunset Beach HI. At larger sizes, it can get hairy; it is NOT for the inexperienced. Last time I was out in December the waves were 12-14ft faces--big enough for this old timer. But at that size they are a softer wave. As they approach 20 ft faces- top to bottom breaks. I got caught inside--on a 14ft face set--I had to retrieve my baggies from the end of my leash once I got back to the channel. Lost my car key which were both tied and clipped in pocket with velcro cover. Cost me $300 to get car towed and new one delivered. But it was worth it!!!
sunset is at least one tick hairier..... tres is H E A V Y. you're right - under 10 foot or so it mushballs on da reef..... larger swells break top to bottom.....H E A V Y. sad about the young man; makes me wonder if he took a chance (on his ability) or if something else happened.
It is indeed sad. While I am "clean" at my age now, I cannot say I was an angel when living there. The surfing community there is known for hitting drink and drugs all night, then going out surfing next day. We are NOT smart doing so. There is a reason they have assigned an homicide detective to inquire about the lad. Never the less, it does give us pause for reflection-- I am lucky to be alive. We all are.
Pound for pound Sunset Beach is way heavier than Tres Palmas. Tres is actually a very easy "big" wave to surf. It's soft and mellow. It doesn't even really barrel, unless it's a once in a decade type swell. Sunset heaves in anything over 8 foot faces. Gnarly current and rips, etc. You could take a canoe out at Tres at 8-10 foot.
In San Juan area, a town called Rio Piedras. We went to Rincon when waves were breaking, weekends, school breaks etc.
Yup that makes sense to me. Tres is firing on a 15 second period; Sunset gets 20 second periods occasionally. I suppose that is enough to make the difference you refer to.
one thing they both have in common.... that sick feeling in the gut.....when outside swells stack up..... of impending doom.
Ain't that the truth!! When I got caught inside, I had just tried to catch a 12 footer and paddled my ass off but missed it. I turn around and.....awww, ss****!! A line of biggies bearing down on me. Impending doom. But I made it!! Minus my car keys and only after retrieving my baggies that were at the end of the leash wrapped around the board fins!! One leg completely free of baggies. Nice. I had a good laugh at myself though.
I arrived in Rincon this morning. Went by Tres Palmes. It looked heavy. Saw one guy with a board snapped and heard there have been many more the past two days.
Got some heavy beatings at gas chambers..made one barrel got pics on the D5 will upload later...surfed indicators at sunset still some DOH juice in the water
